Moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising a combination of homarine and erythritol

ABSTRACT

The subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutic composition comprising a combination of homarine and erythritol as well as a non-therapeutic treatment method of the skin to improve cutaneous hydration, to prevent and/or treat cutaneous dryness signs, to restore and/or protect the cutaneous barrier function, to protect cells of the skin and/or of the scalp from osmotic shocks, for example from UV induced osmotic shocks.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is the National Phase application of InternationalApplication No. PCT/IB2009/050597, filed Feb. 13, 2009, which designatesthe United States and was published in English. The foregoing relatedapplication, in its entirety, is incorporated herein by reference.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatologiccompositions.

The invention is directed to new cosmetic or dermopharmaceuticalcompositions comprising a combination of homarine and erythritol in aphysiologically acceptable medium.

This composition is for protecting and/or restoring osmotic epuilibriumof scalp and/or skin cells from osmotics shocks induced by UV, forreinforcing the cutaneous barrier function, more preferably for skinmoisturizing and/or for preventing dehydration and skin dryness signs.

BACKGROUND ART

Skin is composed of three superposed layers that are, from surface tobody depth, epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.

Epidermis can be divided, according to morphological and histologicalcriteria, into four layers, from the deepest to the outermost: the basallamina and the spinosal layer (who form the deep epidermis), and thegranular layer (superficial epidermis) and the corneal layer (or stratumcorneum). Epidermis is a keratinized stratified pavimentous epitheliummostly composed of Merkel and Langerhans cells. Epidermis is in contactwith external environment. One of its roles is to protect the organismfrom dehydration and chemical, mechanical or infectious exterioraggressions.

Dermis is an irrigated connective tissue mostly composed of fibroblastsand of an extracellular matrix made of muccopolysaccharides and ofmacromolecules such as collagen, elastin and fibronectin fibers. Itassumes a nourishing and support function with regards to epidermis.

Skin is known to have tendency to drying due to environmental,psychological and hormonal factors. Now, it is important that skin bewell moisturized and does not suffer a water loss that would lead toskin wilting and drying. Cutaneous dehydration shows in tightening, lossof flexibility and elasticity. Skin becomes rough, even scaly. Treatingcutaneous dryness is an essential challenging: enabling the corneallayer to keep its suppleness and its barrier function is also a moreglobal way to protect the underlying dermis and to prevent skin ageing.

Different moisturizing products currently exist on the cosmetic market.For example, occlusive substances can be used that delay waterevaporation, humectants can be used that capture atmospherical water, orgelified polymers can be used. Cosmetics market is still demanding newalternatives solutions for keeping a supple, flexible and soft skinirrespective of age.

Among the hydration actives often used, betaine (trimethylglycine) isfound. In this regard Japanese patent application JP 09095411 disclosescompositions for skin care that comprise a betaine and erythritolcombination. However, the inventors have discovered surprisingly that acombination of homarine/erythritol has unexpected synergisticosmoprotector effects by comparison to a combination ofbetaine/erythritol.

Homarine is a cyclic zwitterion. It is also an osmolyte meaning that itis significantly mobilized by the cell to maintain or adjust the osmoticpressure and the volume of the cell. These osmolytes found in theirnatural state in various living organisms (algae, plants, bacteria . . .) are synthesized when the organism is subjected to different stress;they are cellular homeostasy regulators.

Erythritol is a water-soluble polyvalent alcohol having several hydroxylfunctions. That sugar is present in eukaryotes: in many yeast species,in Aspergillus, Platymonas . . .

To the knowledge of the inventors, no prior art document discloses thesynergy of osmoprotective and/or hydration activity of thehomarine/erythritol combination.

Thus, the main object of the present invention consists of a cosmetic ordermopharmaceutic composition for topical use comprising in aphysiologically acceptable medium as active ingredients (a) at leasthomarine, one of its salts and/or one of its analogs of C2-C6 N-alkyltype, preferably selected from derivatives of N-ethyl, N-propyl andN-butyl type, and (b) at least erythritol.

One of the advantages of the present invention is that it helps regulateion efflux in skin cells, provides protection for these cells towardsosmotic shocks or environmental stress, and increases the cutaneouswater holding capacity.

The invention is also directed to a cosmetic for improving the skin andscalp general state, and more particularly for preventing or treatingcutaneous dehydration, for improving cutaneous hydration, reinforcingthe cutaneous barrier function, comprising the topical application onskin and/or on scalp of a healthy and effective amount of a compositioncomprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a combination ofhomarine and of erythritol.

According to the invention, “physiologically acceptable medium” means,without limitation, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, awater-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, anaqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum or a vesicle dispersion.“Physiologically acceptable” means that the described compositions orcompounds are suitable for use in contact with mammalian mucosals,nails, scalp, hair, hairs and skin, and more particularly human, withoutundue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and thelike.

In the context of the present invention, homarine and erythritol can beobtained from any supply source, in particular by hemi-chemical syntheseway, chemical synthese way, enzymatic way, by any other mean usable forobtaining them in the ended product at reasonable costs for anindustrial application.

The homarine amount that can be used in the context of the invention mayvary to a large extend and may be preferably from 0.00001% to 50%,preferably from 0.0001% to 30%, more preferably from 0.001% to 10% byweight with respect to the total composition weight.

The erythritol amount that can be used in the context of the inventionmay vary to a large extend and may be preferably from 0.00001% to 80%,preferably from 0.001% to 50%, more preferably from 0.01% to 30% byweight with respect to the total composition weight.

According to the invention, the ponderal ratio homarine/erythritol maypreferably be from 1:1000 to 10:1, preferably from 1:1000 to 1:1, andmore preferably from 1:100 to 1:10.

All percentages and ratios used here are by weight of the totalcomposition and all measures are made at 25° C. unless it is otherwisespecified.

It is possible to integrate in the composition of the invention productsalready known as having an activity helping, improving or restoringcutaneous hydration. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, thecomposition of the present invention may further comprise at least oneadditional active ingredient selected from the group consisting ofmoisturizing agents, humectant agents, occlusive agents, desquamingagents, agents acting on the cutaneous barrier function, UV filters,agents regulating cellular homeostasy, film formers, agents regulatingaquaporin expression, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents,anti-oxidizing agents, anti-inflamatory agents, depigmenting orpropigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, anti-glycation agents,NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating dermal or epidermalmacromolecule synthesis and/or preventing their degradation, agentsstimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocytes proliferation or stimulatingkeratinocytes differenciation, anti-pollution and/or anti-radicalsagents, agents acting on microcirculation, anti-vergeture agents, agentsacting on energetical metabolism of cells, anti-acne agents, agentspromoting lymphatic drainage, anti-hairs regrowth agents and mixturethereof.

Non limiting examples of these agents are: betaine, glycerol, ActimoistBio 2™ (Active Organics), AquaCacteen™ (Mibelle AG Cosmetics),Aquaphyline™ (Silab), AquaregulK™ (Solabia), Carciline™ (Greentech),Codiavelane™ (Biotech Marine), Dermaflux™ (Arch Chemicals Inc.),Hydra'Flow™ (Sochibo), Hydromoist L™ (Symrise), RenovHyal™ (Soliance),Seamoss™ (Biotech Marine), Essenskin™ (Sederma) and Moist 24™ (Sederma).

DETAIL DESCRIPTION

I Additives

The compositions of the invention may include various additional otheringredients, conventional or not. Of course, a decision to include anadditional ingredient and the choice of a specific active ingredient andof additional ingredients depends on the specific application andproduct formulation. The line of demarcation between an “active”ingredient and an “additional” ingredient is therefore artificial anddepends on the specific application and product type. A substance thatis an “active” ingredient in one application or product may be a“functional” ingredient in another, and vice versa.

The compositions of the invention may include one or more additionalingredients, various, conventional or not, which will provide somebenefit to the object of the composition. Such additional ingredientsmay include one or more substances such as, without limitations,cleaning agents, hair conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents,hair styling agents, antidandruff agents, hair growth promoters,perfumes, sunscreen and/or sunblock compounds, pigments, moisturizers,film formers, hair colors, make-up agents, detergents, pharmaceuticals,thickening agents, emulsifiers, humectants, emollients, antisepticagents, deodorant actives, surfactants and propellants.

In a preferred embodiment, where the composition is to be in contactwith human keratinous tissue, the additional ingredients should besuitable for application to keratinous tissue, that is, whenincorporated into the composition they are suitable for use in contactwith human keratinous tissue (hair, nails, skin, lips) without unduetoxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the likewithin the scope of sound medical judgment.

The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by theCosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.)(2004) describes a non limited wide variety of cosmetic andpharmaceutical ingredients usually used in the skin care industry thatcan be used as additional ingredients in the compositions of the presentinvention. Examples of these ingredient classes include, but are notlimited to: healing agents, skin anti-aging agents, skin moisturizingagents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, skin smoothing agents,antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, pesticides anti parasiticagents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-pruriginousagents, external anesthetic agents, antiviral agents, keratolyticagents, free radicals scavengers, antiseborrheic agents, antidandruffagents, the agents modulating the differentiation, proliferation orpigmentation of the skin and agents accelerating penetration,desquamating agents, depigmenting or propigmenting agents, antiglycationagents, tightening agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal orepidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation; agentsstimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes orstimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants;antipollution and/or anti-free radical agents; slimming agents,anticellulite agents, agents acting on the microcirculation; agentsacting on the energy metabolism of the cells; cleaning agents, hairconditioning agents, hair styling agents, hair growth promoters,sunscreen and/or sunblock compounds, make-up agents, detergents,pharmaceutical drugs, emulsifiers, emollients, antiseptic agents,deodorant actives, dermatologically acceptable carriers, surfactants,abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as fragrances,colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, cosmeticastringents, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, anti foaming agents,antioxidants, binders, biological additives, enzymes, enzymaticinhibitors, enzyme-inducing agents, coenzymes, plant extracts, plantderivatives, plant tissue extracts, plant seed extracts, plant oils,botanicals, botanical extracts, ceramides, peptides, buffering agents,bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants,cosmetic biocides, denaturants, drug astringents, external analgesics,film formers or materials, e.g., polymers, for aiding the film-formingproperties and substantivity of the composition, quaternary derivatives,agents increasing the substantivity, opacifying agents, pH adjusters,propellants, reducing agents, sequestrants, skin bleaching andlightening agents, skin tanning agents, skin-conditioning agents (e.g.,humectants, including miscellaneous and occlusive), skin soothing and/orhealing agents and derivatives, skin treating agents, thickeners, andvitamins and derivatives thereof, peeling agents, moisturizing agents,curative agents, lignans, preservatives, UV absorbers, a cytotoxic, anantineoplastic agent, a fat-soluble active, suspending agents, viscositymodifiers, dyes, nonvolatile solvents, diluents, pearlescent aids, foamboosters, a vaccine, and their mixture.

Said additional ingredient is selected from the group consisting ofsugar amines, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine,N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine,galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, vitamin B3 and its derivatives,niacinamide, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts,phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoylhydroxyproline compounds, soy extracts and derivatives, equol,isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, peptides andtheir derivatives, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexapeptides and theirderivatives, lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser,carnosine, N-acyl amino acid compounds, retinoids, retinyl propionate,retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinal, retinoic acid,water-soluble vitamins, ascorbates, vitamin C, ascorbic acid, ascorbylglucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodiumascorbyl phosphate, vitamins their salts and derivatives, provitaminsand their salts and derivatives, ethyl panthenol, vitamin B, vitamin Bderivatives, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin K,vitamin K derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, pantothenylethyl ether, panthenol and its derivatives, dexpanthenol, biotin, aminoacids and their salts and derivatives, water soluble amino acids,asparagine, alanine, indole, glutamic acid, water insoluble vitamins,vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin D, mono-,di-, andtri-terpenoids, beta-ionol, cedrol, and their derivatives, waterinsoluble amino acids, tyrosine, tryptamine, butylated hydroxytoluene,butylated hydroxyanisole, allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate, tocopherol,tocopherol esters, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, phytosterol, hydroxy acids,glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid, keto acids, pyruvic acid,phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol,kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides, soy peptides,salts of sugar acids, Mn gluconate, Zn gluconate, particulate materials,pigment materials, natural colors, piroctone olamine,3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide, triclocarban, zinc pyrithione,hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine, aloe vera, terpene alcohols, allantoin,bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycerol acid, sorbitol acid,pentaerythritol acid, pyrrolidone acid and its salts, dihydroxyacetone,erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaraldehyde, clove oil, menthol,camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazeldistillate, eicosene and vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, iodopropylbutylcarbamate, a polysaccharide, an essential fatty acid, salicylate,glycyrrhetinic acid, carotenoides, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, alipid complex, oils in general of natural origin such shea butter,apricot oil, onagre oil, prunus oil, palm oil, monoi oil, HEPES;procysteine; O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose; the disodium salt ofmethylglycinediacetic acid, steroids such as diosgenin and derivativesof DHEA; DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone and/or a precursor or chemicalor biological derivative, N-ethyloxycarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol,bilberry extracts; phytohormones; extracts of the yeast Saccharomycescerevisiae; extracts of algae; extracts of soyabean, lupin, maize and/orpea; alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, extract ofbutcher's broom and of horse chestnut, and mixtures thereof, ametallopreoteinase inhibitor.

Further skin care and hair care active ingredients that are particularlyuseful in combination with the tri/tetrapeptide mixture can be found inSEDERMA commercial literature and on the website www.sederma.fr.(herewith incorporated in its entirety).

In any embodiment of the present invention, however, the additionalingredients useful herein can be categorized by the benefit they provideor by their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understoodthat the additional ingredients useful herein can in some instancesprovide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode ofaction. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake ofconvenience and are not intended to limit the additional ingredients tothat particular application or applications listed.

1. Sugar Amines (Amino Sugars)

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a sugar amine,which is also known as amino sugar. Sugar amine compounds useful in thepresent invention can include those described in PCT Publication WO02/076423 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,159,485.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.01% to about15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and even morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition, ofsugar amine

Sugar amines can be synthetic or natural in origin and can be used aspure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts from naturalsources or mixtures of synthetic materials). For example, glucosamine isgenerally found in many shellfish and can also be derived from fungalsources. As used herein, “sugar amine” includes isomers and tautomers ofsuch and its salts (e.g., HCl salt) and is commercially available fromSigma Chemical Co.

Examples of sugar amines that are useful herein include glucosamine,N-acetyl glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine,N-acetyl galactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers), and theirsalts (e.g., HCl salt). Preferred for use herein are glucosamine,particularly D-glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine, particularlyN-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

2. DHEA

The composition of the present invention may comprise DHEA ordehydroepiandrosterone and/or a precursor or biological or chemicalderivative.

The term “DHEA precursor” concerns biological precursors of said DHEAwhich are likely to transform in DHEA during metabolism, as well as itschemical precursors which are likely to transform in DHEA by exogenchemical reaction. As non limitating examples of biological precursors,A5-pregnenolone, 17ahydroxy pregnenolone and 17ahydroxy pregnenolonesulfate can be cited. Also, as non limitating examples of chemicalprecursors, the sapogenins or their derivatives, such as diosgenine (orspriost-5-en-3-beta-ol), hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenine andsarsasapogenine, as well as the natural extracts containing them, inparticular fenugrec and Disocorees extracts such as the wild ignameroots or Wild Yam, can be cited.

The term “DHEA derivatives” comprises its chemical derivatives as wellas its biological derivatives. As biological derivatives,A5-androstene-3,7-diol and A4-androstene-3,17-dione can be cited. DHEAsalts, in particular hydrosoluble salts, like DHEA sulfate, can be citedas non limitating examples of chemical derivatives. Esters, suchhydroxcarboxylic acid or DHEA esters disclosed for example in U.S. Pat.No. 5,736,537, or other esters such DHEA salicilate, acetate, valerate(or nheptanoate) and enanthate can also be cited. Derivatives of DHEA(DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate, DHEA aminoacid esters)disclosed in FR 00/03846 in the name of the Applicant can be cited. Thislist is obviously not exhaustive.

3. Metalloproteinase Inhibitors

The term “metalloproteinase inhibitor” relates to all molecule and/orplant or bacterial extract having a inhibitory activity on at least oneof the metalloproteinases expressed or synthetized by or in the skin.The article of Y. HEROUY and al., European Journal of Dermatology, n 3,vol. 10, Avril-Mai 2000 discloses metalloproteinases (pp. 173-180). Thefamily of the metalloproteinases is formed of several well-definedgroups on the basis of their resemblance regarding structure andsubstract specificity (Woessner J. F., Faseb Journal, vol. 5,1991,2145). Among these groups, there are collagenases able to degradefibrillar collagens (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 orneutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3, MMP-18 or collagenase4), gelatinases degrading type IV collagen or other denatured collagenform (MMP-2 or A gelatinase (72 kDa), MMP-9 or B gelatinase (92 kDa)),stromelysines (MMP-3 or stromelysine 1, MMP-10 or stromelysine 2, MMP-11or stromelysine 3) whose broad spectrum of activity targets proteins ofthe extracellular matrix such as glycoproteins (fibronectine, laminine),proteoglycannes etc., matrilysine (MMP-7), metalloelastase (MMP-12) oralso ou encore les membrane metalloproteinases (MMP-14, MMP-15, MMP-16et MMP-17). Metalloproteinases (MMPs) are proteases that use a metal,mostly zinc coordinated to 3 cystein residues and to a methionine intheir active site and that degrade macromolecular components of theextracellulare matrix and of basal layers at neutral pH (collagen,elastin, etc. . . ). This group of enzymes is inactivated by metalchelators.

The principal activity regulators of MMPs are the tissue inhibitors ofmetalloproteinases or TIMPs such TIMP-1, TIMP-2, TIMP-3 and TIMP-4(Woessner J. F., Faseb Journal, 1991). Furthermore, the MMPs expressionis also regulated by growth factors, cytokins, oncogens products (ras,jun), or also matrice constituents.

The term “metalloproteinase inhibitors

according to the present invention means all molecule able to reduce theMMPs activity regarding the gene expression (transcription andtranslation) or regarding the activation of the zymogene form of MMPs,or else regarding the local control of active forms.

Furthermore, the metalloproteinase inhibitors according to the presentinvention can also be MMP-1 inhibitors of natural or synthetic origin.The terms “natural origin” or “synthetic origin” mean both ametalloproteinase inhibitor at a pure state or in solution at differentconcentrations, but natural inhibitors are obtained from differentextraction methods of a natural origin term element (for example thelycopene) whereas the inhibitors of synthetical origin are all obtainedvia chemical synthesis.

4. Vitamin B3 Compounds

The compositions of the present invention can include a vitamin B3compound. Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulatingskin conditions, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,939,082. In oneembodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 50%,more preferably from about 0.01% to about 20%, even more preferably fromabout 0.05% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 0.1% toabout 7%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight ofthe composition, of the vitamin B3 compound.

As used herein, “vitamin B3 compound” means a compound having theformula:

wherein R is —CONH₂ (i.e., niacinamide), —COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or—CH₂OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of anyof the foregoing.

Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds includenicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinicacid (e.g, tocopherol nicotinate, myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl aminoacids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acidN-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters ofC1-C22, preferably C1-C16, more preferably C1-C6 alcohols.Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinateand inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are derivatives ofniacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amidegroup hydrogens. Specific examples of such derivatives includenicotinuric acid (C₈H₈N₂O₃) and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid (C₆H₆N₂O₂).

Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters ofthe carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid,palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B3compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide,6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n,n-diethylnicotinamide,n-(hydroxymethyl)-nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide,n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde,isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide,nialamide, 1-(3-pyridylmethyl)urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol,and niaprazine.

Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art andare commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the SigmaChemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, Calif.)and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wis.).

One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitaminB3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide ismore preferred.

When used, salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacinamide arepreferably those having substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide

Salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Nonlimitingexamples of salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein includeorganic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionicinorganic species (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate,preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (includingmono-, di- and tri-C1-C18 carboxylic acid salts, e.g., acetate,salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferablymonocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate). These and other salts of thevitamin B3 compound can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan (“TheReaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Iosascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid andIts Amide”, J. Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26 (1949)).

The vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially purematerial, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemicalisolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources. The vitamin B3 compound ispreferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

5. Dehydroacetic Acid (DHA)

The composition of this invention can include dehydroacetic acid, havingthe structure:

or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives or tautomers thereof.The technical name for dehydroacetic acid is3-Acetyl-6-methyl-2H-pyran-2,4(3H)-dione and can be commerciallypurchased from Lonza.

Pharmaceutically acceptable salts include alkali metal salts, such assodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium andmagnesium; non-toxic heavy metal salts; ammonium salts; andtrialkylammonium salts, such astrimethylammonium and triethylammonium.Sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts of dehydroacetic acid arepreferred. Highly preferred is sodium dehydroacetate which can bepurchased from Tri-K, as Tristat SDHA. Derivatives of dehydroacetic acidinclude, but are not limited to, any compounds wherein the CH3 groupsare individually or in combination replaced by amides, esters, aminogroups, alkyls, and alcohol esters. Tautomers of dehydroacetic acid canbe described as having the chemical formula C8H8O4 and generally havingthe structure above.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention cancomprise from about 0.001% to about 25% by weight of the composition,preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about0.05% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%,of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivativesor tautomers thereof

6. Phytosterol

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a phytosterol.For example, one or more phytosterols can be selected from the groupconsisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol,Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, theirderivatives, analogs, and combinations thereof. More preferably, thephytosterol is selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol,campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, andcombinations thereof. More preferably, the phytosterol is stigmasterol.

Phytosterols can be synthetic or natural in origin and can be used asessentially pure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts fromnatural sources). Phytosterols are generally found in the unsaponifiableportion of vegetable oils and fats and are available as free sterols,acetylated derivatives, sterol esters, ethoxylated or glycosidicderivatives. More preferably, the phytosterols are free sterols. As usedherein, “phytosterol” includes isomers and tautomers of such and iscommercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company, Sigma ChemicalCompany, and Cognis. In one embodiment, the composition of the presentinvention comprises from about 0.0001% to about 25%, more preferablyfrom about 0.001% to about 15%, even more preferably from about 0.01% toabout 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, and evenmore preferably from about 0.2% to about 2% phytosterol, by weight ofthe composition.

7. Salicylic Acid Compound

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a salicylic acidcompound, its esters, its salts, or combinations thereof. In oneembodiment of the compositions of the present invention, the salicylicacid compound preferably comprises from about 0.0001% to about 25%, morepreferably from about 0.001% to about 15%, even more preferably fromabout 0.01% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about5%, and even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, by weight ofthe composition, of salicylic acid.

8. Hexamidine

The compositions of the present invention can include hexamidinecompounds, its salts, and derivatives.

In one embodiment, the hexamidine comprises from about 0.0001% to about25%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferablyfrom about 0.01% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.02%to about 2.5% by weight of the composition.

As used herein, hexamidine derivatives include any isomers and tautomersof hexamidine compounds including but not limited to organic acids andmineral acids, for example sulfonic acid, carboxylic acid, etc.Preferably, the hexamidine compounds include hexamidine diisethionate,commercially available as Eleastab® HP100 from LaboratoiresSerobiologiques.

9. Dialkanoyl Hydroxyproline Compounds

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moredialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds and their salts and derivatives.

In one embodiment, the dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds preferablycomprise from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weightof the composition

Suitable derivatives include but are not limited to esters, for examplefatty esters, including, but not limited to tripalmitoyl hydroxyprolineand dipalmityl acetyl hydroxyproline. A particularly useful compound isdipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. As used herein, dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineincludes any isomers and tautomers of such and is commercially availableunder the tradename Sepilift DPHP® from Seppic, Inc. Further discussionof dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline appears in PCT Publication WO 93/23028.Preferably, the dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is the triethanolamine saltof dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.

10. Flavonoids.

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a flavonoidcompound. Flavonoids are broadly disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,686,082and 5,686,367. As used herein, “flavonoïd” means unsubstituted flavonoïdor substituted flavonoid (i.e. mono-substituted flavonoid, or/anddi-substituted flavonoid, or/and tri-substituted flavonoid). Examples offlavonoids particularly suitable for use in the present invention areone or more flavones, one or more flavanones, one or more isoflavones,one or more coumarins, one or more chromones, one or more dicoumarols,one or more chromanones, one or more chromanols, isomers (e.g.,cis/trans isomers) thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred for use herein are flavones and isoflavones, in particulardaidzein (7,4′-dihydroxy isoflavone), genistein (5,7,4′-trihydroxyisoflavone), equol (7,4′-dihydroxy isoflavan), 5,7-dihydroxy-4′-methoxyisoflavone, soy isoflavones (a mixture extracted from soy) and otherplant sources of such mixtures (e.g., red clover), and mixtures thereof.Also preferred are favanones such as hesperitin, hesperidin, andmixtures thereof.

Flavonoid compounds useful herein are commercially available from anumber of sources, e.g., Indofine Chemical Company, Inc., Steraloids,Inc., and Aldrich Chemical Company, Inc. Suitable flavonoïdes arecommercially available called Sterocare® offered by SEDERMA anddescribed in WO 99/18927.

In one embodiment, the herein described flavonoid compounds comprisefrom about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about10%, and even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight ofthe composition.

11. N-acyl Amino Acid Compound

The topical compositions of the present invention can comprise one ormore N-acyl amino acid compounds. The amino acid can be one of any ofthe amino acids known in the art. The N-acyl amino acid compounds of thepresent invention can correspond to the formula:

wherein R can be a hydrogen, alkyl (substituted or unsubstituted,branched or straight chain), or a combination of alkyl and aromaticgroups.

Preferably, the N-acyl amino acid compound is selected from the groupconsisting of N-acyl Phenylalanine, N-acyl Tyrosine, their isomers,their salts, and derivatives thereof. The amino acid can be the D or Lisomer or a mixture thereof.

Among the broad class of N-acyl Phenylalanine derivatives, particularlyuseful is N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine commercially available underthe tradename Sepiwhite® from SEPPIC.

In one embodiment, of the present invention, the N-acyl amino acidpreferably comprises from about 0.0001% to about 25%, more preferablyfrom about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% toabout 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2.5% byweight of the composition.

12. Retinoid

The compositions of this invention can comprise a retinoid, preferablyin a safe and effective amount such that the resultant composition issafe and effective for regulating keratinous tissue condition,preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities inkeratinous tissue (e.g., regulating signs of skin aging). Thecompositions can comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.005% to about 2%, even more preferably fromabout 0.01% to about 1%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about0.5%, by weight of the composition, of the retinoid. The optimumconcentration used in a composition will depend on the specific retinoidselected since their potency can vary considerably.

As used herein, “retinoid” includes all natural and/or synthetic analogsof Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biologicalactivity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers andstereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably selectedfrom retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol,including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate),retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and/or13-cis-retinoic acid), or mixtures thereof. More preferably the retinoidis a retinoid other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well knownin the art and are commercially available from a number of sources,e.g., Sigma Chemical Company, and Boerhinger Mannheim. Other retinoidswhich are useful herein are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,120,4,885,311, 5,049,584, 5,124,356, and Reissue 34,075. Other suitableretinoids can include tocopheryl-retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoicacid (trans- or cis-), adapalene{6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid}, and tazarotene(ethyl 6-[2-(4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl)-ethynyl]nicotinate).Preferred retinoids include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate,retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred isretinyl propionate, used most preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.3%.

The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or asan extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation fromnatural (e.g., plant) sources. The retinoid is preferably substantiallypure, more preferably essentially pure.

13. Optional Peptide

The composition of the present invention can comprise an additionalpeptide. Suitable peptides can include, but are not limited to, di-,tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexa-peptides and derivatives thereof. In oneembodiment, the composition comprises from about 1×10-7% to about 20%,more preferably from about 1×10-6% to about 10%, even more preferablyfrom about 1×10-5% to about 5%, by weight of additional peptide.

As used herein, “peptide” refers to peptides containing ten or feweramino acids and their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with otherspecies such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium,and the like). As used herein, peptide refers to both naturallyoccurring and synthesized peptides. Also useful herein are naturallyoccurring and commercially available compositions that contain peptides.

Suitable dipeptides for use herein include but are not limited toCarnosine (beta-Ala-His), Tyr-Arg, Val-Trp (WO 0164178), Asn-Phe,Asp-Phe. Suitable tripeptides for use herein include, but are notlimited to Arg-Lys-Arg (Peptide CK), His-Gly-Gly. Gly-His-Lys,Gly-Gly-His, Gly-His-Gy, Lys-Phe-Lys. Suitable tetrapeptides for useherein include but are not limited to, Peptide E, Arg-Ser-Arg-Lys,Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Suitable pentapeptides include, but are not limited toLys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser. Suitable hexapeptides include but are not limitedto Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and such as those disclosed in Fr 2854897 andUs 2004/0120918.

Other suitable peptides for use herein include, but are not limited tolipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl derivatives,and metal complexes of the aforementioned (e.g., copper complex of thetripeptide His-Gly-Gly). Preferred dipeptide derivatives includeN-Palmitoyl-beta-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexadecylester (CALMOSENSINE™from SEDERMA, France, WO 9807744, U.S. Pat. No. 6,372,717). Preferredtripeptide derivatives include N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Lys-His, (Pal-GKH fromSEDERMA, France, WO 0040611), a copper derivative of His-Gly-Gly soldcommercially as lamin, from Sigma, lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys)and its analogs of conservative substitution, N-Acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH2(Peptide CK+), N-Biot-Gly-His-Lys (N-Biot-GHK from SEDERMA, WO 0058347)and derivatives thereof. Suitable tetrapeptide derivatives for useherein include, but are not limited to N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (fromSEDERMA, France), suitable pentapeptide derivatives for use hereininclude, but are not limited to N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser(available as MATRIXYL™ from SEDERMA, France, WO 0015188 and U.S. Pat.No. 6,620,419) N-Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-X with X Met or Leu ormixtures thereof. Suitable hexapeptide derivatives for use hereininclude, but are not limited to N-Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly andderivatives thereof.

The preferred compositions commercially available containing atripeptide or a derivative include Biopeptide-CL™ by SEDERMA (WO0143701), Maxilip™ by SEDERMA (WO 0143701), Biobustyl™ by SEDERMA. Thecompositions commercially available preferred sources of tetrapeptidesinclude RIGIN™ (WO 0043417), EYELISS™ (WO 03068141), MATRIXYL™ RELOADED,and MATRIXYL 3000™ which contain between 50 and 500 ppm ofpalmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, and carrier, proposed by SEDERMA, France (Us2004/0132667).

14. Ascorbates and Other Vitamins

The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or morevitamins, such as ascorbates (e.g., vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives,ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesiumascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate). Such vitamins caninclude, but are not limited to, vitamin B, vitamin B derivatives,vitamin B1 to vitamin B12 and theirs derivatives, vitamin K, vitamin Kderivatives, vitamin H vitamin D, vitamin D derivatives, vitamin E,vitamin E derivatives, and provitamins thereof, such as panthenol andmixtures thereof. The vitamin compounds may be included as thesubstantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitablephysical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.In one embodiment, when vitamin compounds are present in thecompositions of the instant invention, the compositions comprise fromabout 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about10%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and still morepreferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, ofthe vitamin compound.

15. Particulate Material

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moreparticulate materials. Non limiting examples of particulate materialsuseful in the present invention include colored and uncolored pigments,interference pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, compositepowders, optical brightener particles, and combinations thereof. Theseparticulates can, for instance, be platelet shaped, spherical, elongatedor needle-shaped, or irregularly shaped, surface coated or uncoated,porous or non-porous, charged or uncharged, and can be added to thecurrent compositions as a powder or as a pre-dispersion. In oneembodiment, particulate materials are present in the composition inlevels of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about0.05% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%,by weight of the composition. There are no specific limitations as tothe pigment, colorant or filler powders used in the composition.

Particulate materials useful herein can include, but are not limited to,bismuth oxychloride, sericite, mica, mica treated with barium sulfate orother materials, zeolite, kaolin, silica, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine,nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, polystyrene,ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, bariumsulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate, PTFE, polymethylmethacrylate, starch, modified starches such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, silk, glass, and mixtures thereof. Preferred organicpowders/fillers include, but are not limited, to polymeric particleschosen from the methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres such as, forexample, those sold by Toshiba silicone under the name Tospearl 145A,microspheres of polymethylmethacrylates such as those sold by Seppicunder the name Micropearl M 100, the spherical particles of crosslinkedpolydimethylsiloxanes, especially such as those sold by Dow CorningToray Silicone under the name Trefil E 506C or Trefil E 505C, sphericleparticles of polyamide and more specifically Nylon 12, especially suchas those sold by Atochem under the name Orgasol 2002D Nat C05,polystyerene microspheres such as for example those sold by DynoParticles under the name Dynospheres, ethylene acrylate copolymer soldby Kobo under the name FloBead EA209, PTFE, polypropylene, aluminiumstarch ocetenylsuccinate such as those sold by National Starch under thename Dry Flo, microspheres of polyethylene such as those sold byEquistar under the name of Microthene FN510-00, silicone resin,polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymer, platelet shaped powder madefrom L-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful herein are interference pigments. The most common examplesof interference pigments are micas layered with about 50-300 nm films ofTiO2, Fe2O3, silica, tin oxide, and/or Cr2O3. Useful interferencepigments are available commercially from a wide variety of suppliers,for example, Rona (Timiron™ and Dichrona™), Presperse (Flonac™),Englehard (Duochrome™) Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (Sicopearls) andEckart (e.g. Prestige Silk Red).

Other pigments useful in the present invention can provide colorprimarily through selective absorption of specific wavelengths ofvisible light, and include inorganic pigments, organic pigments andcombinations thereof. Examples of such useful inorganic pigments includeiron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarineblue, and Chrome oxide. Organic pigments can include natural colorantsand synthetic monomeric and polymeric colorants. An example isphthalocyanine blue and green pigment. Also useful are lakes, primaryFD&C or D&C lakes and blends thereof. Also useful are encapsulatedsoluble or insoluble dyes and other colorants. Inorganic white oruncolored pigments useful in the present invention, for example TiO2,ZnO, or ZrO2, are commercially available from a number of sources. Oneexample of a suitable particulate material contains the materialavailable from U.S. Cosmetics (TRONOX TiO2 series, SAT-T CR837, a rutileTiO2).

The pigments/powders of the current invention can be surface treated toprovide added stability of color and/or for ease of formulation.Non-limiting examples of suitable coating materials include silicones,lecithin, amino acids, metal soaps, polyethylene and collagen. Thesesurface treatments may be hydrophobic or hydrophilic, with hydrophobictreatments being preferred.

16. Sunscreen Actives

The compositions of the subject invention may optionally contain asunscreen active. As used herein, “sunscreen active” includes bothsunscreen agents and physical sunblocks. Suitable sunscreen actives maybe organic or inorganic.

A wide variety of conventional organic or inorganic sunscreen activesare suitable for use herein. In one embodiment, the compositioncomprises from about 0.1% to about 20%, more typically from about 0.5%to about 10% by weight of the composition, of the sun screen active.Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and thedesired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

As examples of organic screening agents which are active in UV-A and/orUV-B, there may be mentioned in particular those designated below bytheir CTFA name:

-   -   para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl        Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in        particular under the name “ESCALOL 507” by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,        PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P25” by BASF,    -   salicyclic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name “EUSOLEX        HMS” by RONA/EM INDUSTRIES, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the        name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by HAARMANN and REIMER, Dipropyleneglycol        Salicylate sold under the name “DIPSAL” by SCHER, TEA        Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS” by HAARMANN        and REIMER,    -   dibenzoylmethane derivatives: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold        in particular under the trademark “PARSOL 1789” by HOFFMANN LA        ROCHE, Isopropyl Dibenzolylmethane,    -   cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in        particular under the trademark “PARSOL MCX” by HOFFMANN LA        ROCHE, Isopropyl Methoxy Cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate        sold under the trademark “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by HAARMANN and        REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl        Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,    -   ββ′-diphenylacrylate derivatives: Octocrylene sold in particular        under the trademark “UVINUL N539” by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in        particular under the trademark “UVINUL N35” by BASF,    -   benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the        trademark “UVINUL 400” by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the        trademark “UVINUL D50” by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone,        sold under the trademark “UVINUL M40” by BASF, Benzophenone-4        sold under the trademark “UVINUL MS40” by BASF, Benzophenone-5,        Benzophenone-6 sold under the trademark “HELISORB 11” by        NORQUAY, Benzophenone-8 sold under the trademark “SPECTRA-SORB        UV-24” by AMERICAN CYANAMID, Benzophenone-9 sold under the        trademark “UVINUL DS-49” by BASF, Benzophenone-12,    -   benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene Camphor,        4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300”        by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulphonic Acid, Camphor        Benzalkonium Methosulphate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor        Sulphonic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor,    -   phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic        Acid sold in particular under the trademark “EUSOLEX 232” by        MERCK, Benzimidazilate sold under the trademark “NEO HELIOPAN        AP” by HAARMANN and REIMER,    -   triazine derivatives: Anisotriazine sold under the trademark        “TINOSORB S” by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazones sold in        particular under the trademark “UVINUL T150” by BASF,        Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trademark “UVASORB        HEB” by SIGMA 3V,    -   phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold        under the name “SILATRIZOLE” by RHODIA CHIMIE,    -   anthranilic derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the        trademark “NEO HELIOPAN MA” by HAARMANN and REIMER,    -   imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene        Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,    -   benzalmalonate derivatives: Polyorganosiloxane with        benzalmalonate functional groups sold under the trademark        “PARSOL SLX” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, and mixtures thereof    -   others: dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone,        methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone);        trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin,        methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and        daphnin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene);        dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates        (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of        2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); di-hydroxynaphthoic acid and        its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin        derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles        (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl        naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); quinine salts        (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); quinoline        derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); uric        and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g.,        hexaethylether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl)ether;        hydroquinone;

The organic UV-screening agents which are more particularly preferredare chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene,Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid, Terephthalylidene DicamphorSulphonic, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4,Benzophenone-5,4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzimidazilate,Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, DrometrizoleTrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Also preferred are the compositions described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,190,645and in particular, sunscreen agents sold under the trademarkINCROQUAT-UV-283 manufactured by Croda, Inc.

The inorganic screening agents which may be used in the compositionaccording to the invention are in particular nanopigments (mean size ofthe primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferablybetween 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides such as forexample nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in theform of rutile and/or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium oxidesand mixtures thereof. Coating agents are moreover alumina and/oraluminum stearate. Such nanopigments of metal oxides, coated oruncoated, are in particular described in EP-A-0-518,772 andEP-A-0-518,773.

When used herein, the inorganic sunscreens are present in the amount offrom about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%,more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.

17. Anti-Cellulite Agents

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise ananti-cellulite agent. Suitable agents may include, but are not limitedto, xanthine compounds (e.g., caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, andaminophylline In one embodiment, when anti-cellulite compounds arepresent in the compositions of the instant invention, the compositionscomprise from about 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferably from about0.001% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%,and still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of thecomposition, of the anti-cellulite compound.

Especially useful are combinations with the cellulite/slimming agentscalled Vexel™ (FR 2 654 619), Coaxel (FR 2 694 195), Cyclolipase™ (FR 2733 149), Pleurimincyl™ and Lipocare™ (WO 98/43607) and Unislim™ (FR0306063), all offered by SEDERMA.

18. Slimming, Toning or Draining Actives

The compositions can include one or more lipolytic agent selected among:phosphodiesterase inhibitors (e.g., xanthine derivatives), alpha-2blockers compounds capable of blocking alpha-2 receptors at theadipocytes surface, beta-adrenergical agonists and antagonists (e.g.alverine and its organic or inorganic salts such as alverine citrate),agents inhibiting LDL and VLDL receptors synthesis, inhibitors ofenzymes of fatty acid synthesis such as acetylCoA carboxylase, or fattyacid synthetase or cerulenine, compounds stimulating beta receptorsand/or G proteins, glucose transport blockers such as serutine orrutine, neuropeptide Y (NPY) antagonists capable of blocking NPYreceptors at the adipocytes surface, cAMP and its cosmeticallyacceptable derivatives, adenylate cyclase enzyme active agents such asforskolin, agents modifying fat acids transport, lipolytic peptides andlipolytic proteins, like peptides or proteins such as the peptidesderived from the parathyroidal hormone, described in particular in thepatents FR 2788058 and FR 2781231.

Others examples of usable lipolytic agents include botanical and marineextracts.

-   -   among plant extracts, there may more particularly be mentioned        the extract of English ivy (Hedera Helix), of Chinese thorowax        (Bupleurum chinensis), of arnica (Arnica Montana L), of rosemary        (Rosmarinus officinalis N), of marigold (Calendula        officinalis),of sage (Salvia officinalis L), of ginseng (Panax        ginseng), of ginko biloba, of St.-John's-Wort (Hyperycum        Perforatum), of butcher's-broom (Ruscus aculeatus L), of        European meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria L), of big-flowered        Jarva tea (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), of algae (Fucus        Vesiculosus), of birch (Betula alba), of green tea, of cola nuts        (Cola Nipida), of horse-chestnut, of bamboo, of spadeleaf        (Centella asiatica), of heather, of fucus, of willow, of        mouse-ear, extracts of escine, extracts of cangzhu, extracts of        chrysanthellum indicum, extracts of the plants of the Armeniacea        genus, Atractylodis Platicodon, Sinnomenum, Pharbitidis,        Flemingia, extracts of Coleus such as C. Forskohlii, C.        blumei, C. esquirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C.        Barbatus, such as the extract of root of Coleus barbatus,        extracts of Ballote, extracts of Guioa, of Davallia, of        Terminalia, of Barringtonia, of Trema, of antirobia, cecropia,        argania, dioscoreae such as Dioscorea opposita or Mexican,    -   as extracted of marine origin: extracts of algae or        phytoplankton such as an extract of Laminaria digitata, diatoms,        rhodysterol. All these extracts can of course to be taken in        mixtures.

The compositions according to the invention can also contain in additionone or more additional active selected among: agents acting on themicrocirculation (vasculoprotectors or vasodilators) such as the naturalflavonoides, ruscogenines, esculosides, escine, nicotinates, heperidinemethyl chalcone, butcher's-broom, essential oils of lavender orrosemary, the extracts of Ammi visnaga; anti-glycation agents such asextracts of Centella asiatica and Siegesbeckia, silicium, amadorine,ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and theirderivatives (e.g. resveratrol), vegetable extracts of the family ofEricaceae, in particular bilberry extracts (Vaccinium angustifollium),vitamin C and its derivatives, retionol and its derivatives.

19. Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise BHT orBHA.

In one embodiment, BHT and/or BHA comprises from about 0.0001% to about20% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 0.001% toabout 10%, even more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and stillmore preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.5%.

20. Topical Anesthetics

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a safe andeffective amount of a topical anesthetic. Examples of topical anestheticdrugs include benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine, chlorprocaine,dibucaine, etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine,procaine, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxine, phenol, and pharmaceuticallyacceptable salts thereof.

21. Desquamation Actives/Keratolytic Actives

A desquamating/keratolytic active may be added to the compositions ofthe present invention. In one embodiment, the composition comprises fromabout 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, ofa desquamating/keratolytic active.

Examples of useful keratolytic and/or desquamating agents include urea,salicylic acid and alkyl derivatives thereof, saturated and unsaturatedmonocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated bicarboxylic acids,tricarboxylic acids, alpha hydroxyacids and beta hydroxyacids ofmonocarboxylic acids, alpha hydroxyacids and beta hydroxyacids ofbicarboxylic acids, alpha hydroxyacids and beta hydroxyacids oftricarboxylic acids, ketoacids, alpha ketoacids, beta ketoacids, of thepolycarboxylic acids, of the polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, of thepolyhydroxy bicarboxylic acids, of the polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids.

Illustrative of this group of materials are 2-hydroxyethanoic acid(glycolic acid); 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid); 2-methyl2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid); 2-hydroxybutanoic acid;2-hydroxypentanoic acid; 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 2-hydroxyheptanoicacid; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; 2hydroxynonanoic acid; 2-hydroxydecanoicacid; 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid; 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid(alpha-hydroxylauric acid); 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid(alpha-hydroxymyristic acid); 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid(alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid); 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid(alpha-hydroxystearic acid); 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid(alpha-hydroxyarachidonic acid); 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid(mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid);3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyl lactic acid); 2-phenyl 2-methyl2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid); 2-(4′-hydroxyphenyl)2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2-(4′-chlorophenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid;2-(3′-hydroxy-4′-methoxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid;2-(4′-hydroxy-3′-methoxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid;3′-(2-hydroxyphenyl) 2-hydroxypropanoic acid; 3-(4′-hydroxyphenyl)2-hydroxypropanoic acid; and 2-(3′,4′dihydroxyphenyl), and2-hydroxyethanoic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid,5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid,5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid,4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 2-hydroxy-3-methylbenzoic acid or alkoxyderivatives thereof, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methyoxybenzoic acid.

Preferred keratolytic agents are selected from the group comprisingglycolic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid,pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid,oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, phenol,resorcine, retinoic acid, adapalene, trichloroacetic acid, 5-fluorouracil, azelaic acid. Keratolytic agents are also the salts, esters,possible cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures and/or the relativedextrorotatory or levorotatory forms of the above listed compounds. Suchsubstances can be used singularly or in associations with each other.

Other keratolytic agents suitable for use herein can include enzymaticexfoliant based on a protease called Keratoline™ and offered by Sederma.

One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprisessalicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S.Pat. No. 5,652,228. Another desquamation system that is suitable for useherein contains sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and isdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,681,852. Zwitterionic surfactants such asthose described in this referenced patent can also be useful asdesquamatory agents herein, with cetyl betaine being particularlypreferred.

22. Anti-Acne Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moreanti-acne actives. Examples of useful anti-acne actives includeresorcinol, sulfur, erythromycin, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide,dehydroacetic acid and zinc. Further examples of suitable anti-acneactives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,607,980. Especially useful arecombinations with the anti-acne ingredient called Ac.net™ offered bySEDERMA (WO 03/028692 A2).

In one embodiment, when anti-acne compounds are present in thecompositions of the instant invention, the compositions comprise fromabout 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about10%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and still morepreferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, ofthe anti-acne compound.

23. Anti-Wrinkle Actives/Anti-Atrophy Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a one or moreanti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives. Exemplaryanti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy actives suitable for use in the compositionsof the present invention include sulfur-containing D and L amino acidsand their derivatives and salts, particularly the N-acetyl derivatives,a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, e.g. ethanethiol, hydroxy acids (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid andglycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and salicylicacid derivatives such as the octanoyl derivative, lactobionic acid),keto acids (e.g., pyruvic acid), phytic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin),stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin,dimethylaminoethanol, peptides from natural sources (e.g., soypeptides), and salts of sugar acids (e.g., Mn gluconate, Zn gluconate),lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, skin peel agents (e.g., phenol andthe like), vitamin B3 compounds and retinoids and other vitamin Bcompounds (e.g., thiamine (vitamin B1), pantothenic acid (vitamin B5),riboflavin (vitamin B2), and their derivatives and salts (e.g., HCLsalts or calcium salts). Especially useful are combinations with thewrinkle agents called Dermolectine™ and Sterocare™ offered by SEDERMA(WO99/18927).

In one embodiment, when anti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy compounds are presentin the compositions of the instant invention, the compositions comprisefrom about 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.001% toabout 10%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and stillmore preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of thecomposition, of the anti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy compound.

24. Anti-Oxidants/Racial Scavengers

The compositions of the present invention can include ananti-oxidant/radical scavenger. In one embodiment, the compositioncomprises from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 5%, of an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger.

Anti-oxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) andits salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives(e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylsorbate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherolacetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acids andtheir salts, peroxides including hydrogen peroxide, perborate,thioglycolates, persulfate salts,6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commerciallyavailable under the tradename Trolox®), gallic acid and its alkylesters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkylesters, amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine),nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, sulfhydryl compounds (e.g.,glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and its salts, lysine pidolate,arginine pilolate, amino acids, silymarin, lysine, 1-methionine,proline, superoxide dismutase, sorbic acids and its salts, lipoic acid,olive extracts, tea extracts, polyphenols such as proanthocyanidine frompine bark, carotenoids, curcumin compounds such as tetrahydrocurcumin,OCTA (L-2-oxo-4-thiazolidine carboxylic acid), glutathione, melanin,rosemary extracts and grape skin/seed extracts may be used. Preferredanti-oxidants/radical scavengers can be selected from esters oftocopherol, more preferably tocopherol acetate and tocopherol sorbate(U.S. Pat. No. 4,847,071)

25. Humectants, Moisturizers and Conditioning Agents

The compositions of the present invention can contain a safe andeffective amount of a conditioning agent selected from, for example,humectants, moisturizers, and skin conditioners. A variety of thesematerials can be employed and in one embodiment can be present at alevel of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, byweight of the composition. These materials can include, but are notlimited to, guanidine, urea, glycolic acid, glycolate salts (e.g.ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium), salicylic acid, lactic acid,lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium), aloe verain any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel), polyhydroxyalcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol,hexanetriol, butanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexyleneglycol and the like, polyethylene glycols, sugars (e.g., melibiose),starches, sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated glucose,fructose, glucosamine), hyaluronic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine,acetamide monoethanolamine, panthenol, allantoin, petroleum and mixturesthereof. Also useful herein are the propoxylated glycerols described inU.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953.

Also useful are various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars andrelated materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyolmoiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties.

Preferably, the conditioning agent is selected from urea, guanidine,sucrose polyester, panthenol, dexpanthenol, allantoin, glycerol, andcombinations thereof.

Humectants can be selected from the group consisting of polyhydricalcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixturesthereof. Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include polyhydroxy alcoholsaforementioned and glycerin, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose,1,2-hexane diol, dipropylene glycol, trehalose, diglycerin, maltitol,maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodiumhyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidonecarbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof. Watersoluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein include polyethyleneglycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up toabout 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600,PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.

26. Active Oxygen Generation Inhibitors

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a an activeoxygen generation inhibitor selected from the group comprisingquercetin, rutin, taxifolin, kaempferol, myricetin, curcumin,resveratrol, arecoline, apigenin, wogonin, luteolin, tectorigenin, and amixture thereof. This active oxygen generation inhibitor may becontained in an amount of about 0.001% to about 5%, more preferably inan amount of about 0.01% to about 3% %, by weight of the composition.

27. Chelators

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a chelatoror chelating agent. As used herein, “chelator” or “chelating agent”means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system byforming a complex so that the metal ion cannot readily participate in orcatalyze oxygen radical formation. In one embodiment, a chelating agentis added to a composition of the present invention, preferably fromabout 0.00001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about5%, by weight of the composition. Exemplary chelators that are usefulherein include those that are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,487,884, WO91/16035 and WO 91/16034. Examples of chelating agents includeN-hydroxysuccinimide, EDTA, NTA, deferoxamine, hydroxamic acids andtheir salts, phytic acid, phytate, gluconic acid and its salts,transferrine, lactoferrin; furildioxime and derivatives thereof

28. Anti-Inflammatory Agents

An anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of thepresent invention. In one embodiment, an anti-inflammatory agent isadded at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition. The exact amount ofanti-inflammatory agent to be used in the compositions will depend onthe particular anti-inflammatory agent utilized since such agents varywidely in potency

Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents can include, but are not limited to,corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone. In addition, nonsteroidalanti-inflammatory agents can be useful herein. The varieties ofcompounds encompassed by this group are well known to those skilled inthe art.

Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents that can be useful inthe composition of the present invention include, but are not limitedto, oxicams such as piroxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, acetic acidderivatives, such as felbinac, fenamates, such as etofenamate,flufenamic, mefenamic, meclofenamic, acids; propionic acid derivatives,such as ibuprofen, naproxen, pyrazoles, and mixtures thereof. Mixturesof these non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents may also be employed, aswell as the dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of theseagents.

Finally, so-called “natural” anti-inflammatory agents are useful inmethods of the present invention. Such agents may suitably be obtainedas an extract by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation fromnatural sources (e.g., plants, fungi, by-products of microorganisms) orcan be synthetically prepared. For example, candelilla wax, bisabolol(e.g., alpha bisabolol), aloe vera, plant sterols (e.g., phytosterol),Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly RubiaCordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora,particularly Commiphora Mukul), kola extract, chamomile, red cloverextract, Piper methysticum extract (Kava Kava from SEDERMA (FR 2 771 002and WO 99/25369), Bacopa monieri extract (Bacocalmine™ from SEDERMA, WO99/40897) and sea whip extract, may be used. Anti-inflammatory agentsuseful herein include allantoin and compounds of the Licorice (the plantgenus/species Glycyrrhiza glabra) family, including glycyrrhetic acid,glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e.g., salts and esters).Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds include metal and ammoniumsalts. Suitable esters include C2-C24 saturated or unsaturated esters ofthe acids, preferably C10-C24, more preferably C16-C24. Specificexamples of the foregoing include oil soluble licorice extract, theglycyrrhizic and glycyrrhetic acids themselves, monoammoniumglycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassiumglycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, and disodium3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetinate. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate ispreferred. Additional anti inflammatory agents include diosgenol,saponines, sapogenines, lignanes, triterpenes saponosides and genines.

29. Tanning Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a tanning active.In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.1% to about20%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%, and even more preferablyfrom about 3% to about 6%, by weight of the composition, of a tanningactive. A preferred tanning active is dihydroxyacetone, which is alsoknown as DHA or 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone. Especially useful arecombinations with the tanning agents called Tyr-ol™ and Tyr-excel™offered by SEDERMA and described in Fr 2 702 766 and WO 03/017966respectively.

30. Skin Whitening or Lightening Agents

The compositions of the present invention may contain a skin lighteningagent. When used, the compositions preferably contain from about 0.01%to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 5%, alsopreferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight of the composition,of a skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents includethose known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid,ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g., magnesium ascorbylphosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and thelike), and extracts (e.g., mulberry extract, placental extract). Skinlightening agents suitable for use herein also include those describedin WO95/34280, PCT/US95/07432, co-pending U.S. Ser. No. 08/390,152 andPCT/US95/23780. Especially useful are combinations with the skinlightening agents called Melaclear™, Etioline™, Melaslow™ and Lumiskin™offered by SEDERMA and described respectively in FR 2 732 215, WO98/05299, WO 02/15871 and PCT/FR 03/02400. Other skin lighteningmaterials suitable for use herein can include Actiwhite® (Cognis),Emblica® (Rona), Azeloglicina (Sinerga) and Sepiwhite® (Seppic). Apreferred skin lightening agent is ascorbyl glucoside.

31. Antimicrobial, Antibacterial and Antifungal Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moreanti-fungal or anti-microbial actives. A safe and effective amount of anantimicrobial or antifungal active can be added to the presentcompositions. In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about0.001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and morepreferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight of the composition,of an antimicrobial or antifungal active.

Suitable anti-microbial actives include coal tar, sulfur, whitfield'sointment, castellani's paint, aluminum chloride, gentian violet,octopirox (piroctone olamine), 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan),triclocarban, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and it's metal salts,potassium permanganate, selenium sulphide, sodium thiosulfate, propyleneglycol, oil of bitter orange, urea preparations, griseofulvin,8-Hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol, thiobendazole, thiocarbamates,haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone, morpholine, benzylamine,allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea tree oil, clove leaf oil,coriander, palmarosa, berberine, thyme red, cinnamon oil, cinnamicaldehyde, citronellic acid, hinokitol, ichthyol pale, Sensiva SC-50,Elestab HP-100, azelaic acid, lyticase, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate(IPBC), isothiazalinones such as octyl isothiazolinone and azoles, andcombinations thereof. Preferred anti-microbials include itraconazole,ketoconazole, selenium sulphide and coal tar. In one embodiment, one ormore anti-fungal or anti-microbial active is combined with ananti-dandruff active selected from polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione.

a. Azoles

Azole anti-microbials include imidazoles such as benzimidazole,benzothiazole, bifonazole, butoconazole nitrate, climbazole,clotrimazole, croconazole, eberconazole, econazole, elubiol,fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole,lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole,oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole,thiazole, and triazoles such as terconazole and itraconazole, andcombinations thereof. When present in the composition, the azoleanti-microbial active is included in an amount from about 0.01% to about5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and more preferably fromabout 0.3% to about 2%, by weight of the composition. Especiallypreferred herein are ketoconazole and climbazole.

b. Selenium Sulfide

Selenium sulfide is a particulate anti-dandruff agent suitable for usein the anti-microbial compositions of the present invention, effectiveconcentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 4%, by weight ofthe composition, preferably from about 0.3% to about 2.5%, morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 1.5

c. Sulfur

Sulfur may also be used as a particulate anti-microbial/anti-dandruffagent in the anti-microbial compositions of the present invention.Effective concentrations of the particulate sulfur are typically fromabout 1% to about 4%, by weight of the composition, preferably fromabout 2% to about 4%.

d. Additional Anti-Microbial Actives

Additional anti-microbial actives of the present invention may includeone or more keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, extracts ofmelaleuca (tea tree) and charcoal. The present invention may alsocomprise combinations of anti-microbial actives. Such combinations mayinclude octopirox and zinc pyrithione combinations, pine tar and sulfurcombinations, salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione combinations, octopiroxand climbasole combinations, and salicylic acid and octopiroxcombinations, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of actives useful herein include those selected fromthe group consisting of benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid,glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoicacid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid,lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide,tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetominophen,resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide,octopirox, ciclopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole,miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.Especially useful are combinations with the ingredient range calledOSMOCIDE™ offered by SEDERMA (WO 97/05856).

32. Thickening Agents (Including Thickeners and Gelling Agents)

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or morethickening agents. In one embodiment, a thickening agent is present at alevel of from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% toabout 5%, and more preferably from about 0.25% to about 4%, by weight ofthe composition. Nonlimiting classes of thickening agents include thoseselected from the following:

a. Carboxylic Acid Polymers

These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomersderived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts andesters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, whereinthe crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bondsand is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. Polymers useful in the presentinvention are more fully described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445,4,509,949, 2,798,053, and in CTFA International Cosmetic IngredientDictionary, Tenth Edition, 2004.

Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers usefulherein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acidcrosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. Thecarbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B.F. Goodrich(e.g., Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acidpolymeric agents include Ultrez® 10 (B.F. Goodrich) and copolymers ofC10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid,methacrylic acid, or one of their short chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol)esters, wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose orpentaerytritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342,Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. Inother words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners usefulherein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof

b. Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally containcrosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agentsincluding both cationic and nonionic polymers, with the cationics beinggenerally preferred. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionicpolyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers arethose described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,100,660, 4,849,484, 4,835,206,4,628,078, 4,599,379 and EP 228,868.

c. Polyacrylamide Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally containpolyacrylamide polymers, especially nonionic polyacrylamide polymersincluding substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Preferred amongthese polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer given the CTFAdesignation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, availableunder the Tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of thesemulti-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H,from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

The compositions may also contain thickening and texturising gels of thetype as exemplified by the product range called Lubrajel® from UnitedGuardian. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying, stabilizingproperties and may be used in concentration ranges between 1 and 99%,most advantageously between 5 and 15%.

d. Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful herein.“Polysaccharides” refer to gelling agents that contain a backbone ofrepeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Nonlimiting examples ofpolysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the groupconsisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, celluloseacetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose,methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodiumcellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are thealkyl-substituted celluloses. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol andhydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradenameNatrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linearchain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose everythree units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel™CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

e. Gums

Other thickening and gelling agents useful herein include materialswhich are primarily derived from natural sources. Nonlimiting examplesof these gelling agent gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid,ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan,carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof

33. Antiperspirant Actives

Antiperspirant actives may also be included in the compositions of thepresent invention. Suitable antiperspirant actives include astringentmetallic salts, especially the inorganic and organic salts of aluminumzirconium and zinc, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferredare the aluminum containing and/or zirconium-containing materials orsalts, such as aluminum halides, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminumhydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides, andmixtures thereof. In one embodiment, when antiperspirant actives arepresent in the compositions of the instant invention, the compositionscomprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 40%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 30%, byweight of the composition, of the antiperspirant compound.

34. Detersive Surfactants

The compositions of the present invention can include detersivesurfactant from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 5% toabout 10%. The detersive surfactant component can be included to providecleaning performance to the composition. The detersive surfactantcomponent in turn can comprise anionic detersive surfactant,zwitterionic or amphoteric detersive surfactant, or a combinationthereof. Suitable anionic detersive surfactant components for use in thecomposition herein include those which are known for use in hair care orother personal care cleansing compositions. When included, theconcentration of the anionic surfactant component in the composition canpreferably be sufficient to provide the desired cleaning and latherperformance, and generally can range from about 5% to about 50%,preferably from about 8% to about 30%, more preferably from about 10% toabout 25%, even more preferably from about 12% to about 22%.

Preferred anionic surfactants suitable for use in the compositions arethe alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. Other suitable anionic detersivesurfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acidreaction products, alkoyl isethionates, sodium or potassium salts offatty acid amides of methyl tauride, olefin sulfonates, beta-alkyloxyalkane sulfonates.

Preferred anionic detersive surfactants for use in the compositionsinclude ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylaminelauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine laurylsulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine laurylsulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine laurylsulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodiumsulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium laurylsulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodiumlauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, cocoyl sarcosine, ammonium cocoylsulfate, ammonium lauroyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroylsulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate,triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate,monoethanolamine cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodiumtridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodiumcocoyl isethionate and combinations thereof.

Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic detersive surfactants for use in thecomposition herein include those which are known for use in hair care orother personal care cleansing. Concentration of such amphotericdetersive surfactants preferably ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%,preferably from about 1% to about 10%. Non limiting examples of suitablezwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,104,646; 5,106,609.

Amphoteric detersive surfactants include derivatives of aliphaticsecondary and tertiary amines The compositions of the present inventionmay further comprise additional surfactants for use in combination withthe anionic detersive surfactant component described hereinbefore.Suitable optional surfactants include nonionic and cationic surfactants.Any such surfactant known in the art for use in hair or personal careproducts may be used, provided that the optional additional surfactantis also chemically and physically compatible with the essentialcomponents of the composition, or does not otherwise unduly impairproduct performance, aesthetics or stability. The concentration of theoptional additional surfactants in the composition may vary with thecleansing or lather performance desired, the optional surfactantselected, the desired product concentration, the presence of othercomponents in the composition, and other factors well known in the art.

Non limiting examples of other anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric oroptional additional surfactants suitable for use in the compositions aredescribed in McCutcheon's, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 1989 Annual,published by M. C. Publishing Co., and U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,929,678,2,658,072; 2,438,091; 2,528,378.

35. Cationic, Anionic and Amphoteric Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can comprise polymers whichmay be homopolymers, copolymers, terpolymers, etc. For convenience indescribing the polymers hereof, monomeric units present in the polymersmay be referred to as the monomers from which they can be derived. Themonomers can be ionic (e.g., anionic, cationic, amphoteric,zwitterionic) or nonionic

When included, concentrations of the cationic polymer in the compositioncan typically range from about 0.05% to about 3%, preferably from about0.075% to about 2.0%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.0

a. Cationic Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers for use in the compositions of the presentinvention contain cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such asquaternary ammonium or cationic protonated amino moieties. Any anioniccounterions can be used in association with the cationic polymers solong as the polymers remain soluble in water, in the composition, or ina coacervate phase of the composition, and so long as the counterionsare physically and chemically compatible with the essential componentsof the composition or do not otherwise unduly impair productperformance, stability or aesthetics. Non limiting examples of suchcounterions include halides (e.g., chloride, fluoride, bromide, iodide),sulfate and methylsulfate. Non limiting examples of such polymers aredescribed in the CTFA.

Non limiting examples of suitable cationic polymers include copolymersof vinyl monomers having cationic protonated amine or quaternaryammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such asacrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl anddialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone or vinyl pyrrolidone.

Examples of cationic monomers include monomers derived from acrylic acidor methacrylic acid, and a quaternarized epihalohydrin product of atrialkylamine having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in the alkyl such as(meth)acryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and(meth)acryloxypropyltriethylammonium bromide; amine derivatives ofmethacrylic acid or amine derivatives of methacrylamide derived frommethacrylic acid or methacrylamide and a dialkylalkanolamine havingC1-C6 alkyl groups such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate,diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, ordimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide

Suitable cationic protonated amino and quaternary ammonium monomers, forinclusion in the cationic polymers of the composition herein, includevinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate,dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate,monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammoniumsalt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammoniumsalts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationicnitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, andquaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinylpyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.

Other suitable cationic polymers for use in the compositions includecopolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt(e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic,Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, “CTFA”, as Polyquaternium-16);copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate(referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11); cationicdiallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example,dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer, copolymers of acrylamideand dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to in the industry byCTFA as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively); amphotericcopolymers of acrylic acid including copolymers of acrylic acid anddimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to in the industry by CTFA asPolyquaternium 22), terpolymers of acrylic acid withdimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide (referred to in theindustry by CTFA as Polyquaternium 39), and terpolymers of acrylic acidwith methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methylacrylate(referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium 47). Preferredcationic substituted monomers are the cationic substituteddialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides, andcombinations thereof. A non limiting example ispolymethyacrylamidopropyl trimonium chloride, available under the tradename Polycare 133, from Rhone-Poulenc.

Other suitable cationic polymers for use in the composition includepolysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives andcationic starch derivatives. Preferred cationic cellulose polymers aresalts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammoniumsubstituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 10 and available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA)in their Polymer LR, JR, and KG series of polymers. Other suitable typesof cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium saltsof hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxide referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp.under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives,such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, specific examples of whichinclude the Jaguar series commercially available from Rhone-PoulencIncorporated and the N-Hance series commercially available from AqualonDivision of Hercules, Inc. Other suitable cationic polymers includequaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, some examples of whichare described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,962,418. Other suitable cationicpolymers include copolymers of etherified cellulose, guar and starch,some examples of which are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581. Whenused, the cationic polymers herein are either soluble in the compositionor are soluble in a complex coacervate phase in the composition formedby the cationic polymer and the anionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionicdetersive surfactant component described hereinbefore. Complexcoacervates of the cationic polymer can also be formed with othercharged materials in the composition.

b. Anionic Polymers

Examples of anionic polymers are copolymers of vinyl acetate andcrotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinylester of an alpha-branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid suchas vinyl neodecanoate; and copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleicanhydride, acrylic copolymers and terpolymers containing acrylic acid ormethacrylic acid.

Examples of anionic monomers include unsaturated carboxylic acidmonomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleicacid half ester, itaconic acid, fumeric acid, and crotonic acid; halfesters of an unsaturated polybasic acid anhydride such as succinicanhydride, phthalic anhydride or the like with a hydroxylgroup-containing acrylate and/or methacrylate such as hydroxyethylacrylate and, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate and thelike; monomers having a sulfonic acid group such as styrenesulfonicacid, sulfoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, and the like; and monomershaving a phosphoric acid group such as acid phosphooxyethyl acrylate andmethacrylate, 3-chloro-2-acid phosphooxypropyl acrylate andmethacrylate, and the like.

c. Amphoteric Monomers

Examples of the amphoteric monomers include zwitterionized derivativesof the aforementioned amine derivatives of (meth)acrylic acids or theamine derivatives of (meth)acrylamide such asdimethylaminoethyl(meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl(meth)acrylamide bya halogenated fatty acid salt such as potassium monochloroacetate,sodium monobromopropionate, aminomethylpropanol salt of monochloroaceticacid, triethanolamine salts of monochloroacetic acid and the like; andamine derivatives of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide, asdiscussed above, modified with propanesultone.

36. Nonionic Polymers

The compositions herein can comprise nonionic polymers. For instance,polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight of more than about 1000can be used. Preferred polyethylene glycol polymers can include PEG-2M(also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbideand as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and PolyoxWSR® N-80, available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 andPolyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-750available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M (also known as Polyox WSR®N-3000 available from Union Carbide).

Examples of nonionic monomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid esters ofC1-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol,1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol,2-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol,1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol,t-butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol, 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol,2-octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol,3,5-dimethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol,1-dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, styrene, chlorostyrene, vinylesters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride,acrylonitrile, alpha-methylstyrene, t-butylstyrene, butadiene,cyclohexadiene, ethylene, propylene, vinyl toluene,alkoxyalkyl(meth)acrylate, methoxy ethyl(meth)acrylate,butoxyethyl(meth)acrylate, allyl acrylate, allyl methacrylate,cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate,benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate andmethacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate,1,3-butyleneglycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, diacetonacrylamide,isobornyl(meth)acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate,2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylate,t-butylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof

37. Hair Conditioning Agents

Conditioning agents include any material which is used to give aparticular conditioning benefit to keratinous tissue. For instance, inhair treatment compositions, suitable conditioning agents include thosewhich deliver one or more benefits relating to shine, softness,combability, antistatic properties, wet-handling, damage, manageability,body, and greasiness. Conditioning agents useful in the compositions ofthe present invention can comprise a water insoluble, water dispersible,non-volatile liquid that forms emulsified, liquid particles. Suitableconditioning agents for use in the composition include thoseconditioning agents characterized generally as silicones (e.g., siliconeoils, cationic silicones, silicone gums, high refractive silicones, andsilicone resins), organic conditioning oils (e.g., hydrocarbon oils,polyolefins, and fatty esters) or combinations thereof, or thoseconditioning agents which otherwise form liquid, dispersed particles inthe aqueous surfactant matrix herein.

When included, the concentration of the conditioning agent in thecomposition can be sufficient to provide the desired conditioningbenefits, and as will be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.Such concentration can vary with the conditioning agent, theconditioning performance desired, the average size of the conditioningagent particles, the type and concentration of other components, andother like factors.

a. Silicones

The conditioning agent of the compositions of the present invention ispreferably an insoluble silicone conditioning agent. The siliconeconditioning agent particles may comprise volatile silicone,non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof. Non-volatile siliconconditioning agents are preferred. If volatile silicones are present, itwill typically be incidental to their use as a solvent or carrier forcommercially available forms of non-volatile silicone materialsingredients, such as silicone gums and resins. The silicone conditioningagent particles may comprise a silicone fluid conditioning agent and mayalso comprise other ingredients, such as a silicone resin to improvesilicone fluid deposition efficiency or enhance glossiness of the hair.

The concentration of the silicone conditioning agent typically rangesfrom about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%,more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about0.2% to about 3%. Non-limiting examples of suitable siliconeconditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the silicone,are described in U.S. Reissue Pat. Nos. 34,584, 5,104,646, and5,106,609.

Background material on silicones including sections discussing siliconefluids, gums, and resins, as well as manufacture of silicones, are foundin Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, 2d ed., pp204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (1989).

b. Silicone Oils

Silicone fluids include silicone oils, which are flowable siliconematerials having a viscosity, as measured at 25° C., less than 1,000,000csk, preferably from about 5 csk to about 1,000,000 csk, more preferablyfrom about 100 csk to about 600,000 csk. Suitable silicone oils for usein the compositions of the present invention include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other insoluble, non-volatilesilicone fluids having hair conditioning properties may also be used.

c. Amino and Cationic Silicones

Cationic silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention include, but are not limited to, the polymer known as“trimethylsilylamodimethicone”.

Other silicone cationic polymers which may be used in the compositionsof the present invention may be UCARE SILICONE ALE 56™, available fromUnion Carbide.

d. Silicone Gums

Other silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are the insoluble silicone gums. These gums arepolyorganosiloxane materials having a viscosity, as measured at 25° C.,of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 csk. Silicone gums are describedin U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416; Noll and Walter, Chemistry and Technology ofSilicones, New York: Academic Press (1968); and in General ElectricSilicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.Specific non-limiting examples of silicone gums for use in thecompositions of the present invention include polydimethylsiloxane,(polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,poly(dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl siloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane)copolymer and mixtures thereof.

e. High Refractive Index Silicones

Other non-volatile, insoluble silicone fluid conditioning agents thatare suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention arethose known as “high refractive index silicones,” having a refractiveindex of at least about 1.46, preferably at least about 1.48, morepreferably at least about 1.52, more preferably at least about 1.55. Therefractive index of the polysiloxane fluid will generally be less thanabout 1.70, typically less than about 1.60. In this context,polysiloxane “fluid” includes oils as well as gums.

When high refractive index silicones are used in the compositions of thepresent invention, they are preferably used in solution with a spreadingagent, such as a silicone resin or a surfactant, to reduce the surfacetension by a sufficient amount to enhance spreading and thereby enhancethe glossiness (subsequent to drying) of hair treated with thecompositions.

Silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,826,551, 3,964,500,4,364,837, British Pat. No. 849,433, and Silicon Compounds, PetrarchSystems, Inc. (1984).

f. Silicone Resins

Silicone resins may be included in the silicone conditioning agent ofthe compositions of the present invention. These resins are highlycross-linked polymeric siloxane systems. The cross-linking is introducedthrough the incorporation of trifunctional and tetrafunctional silaneswith monofunctional or difunctional, or both, silanes during manufactureof the silicone resin.

38. Organic Conditioning Oils

Compositions of the present invention may also comprise organicconditioning oil. In one embodiment, from about 0.05% to about 20%,preferably from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about0.1% to about 1%, of at least one organic conditioning oil is includedas a conditioning agent, either alone or in combination with otherconditioning agents, such as the silicones (described herein).

a. Hydrocarbon Oils

Suitable organic conditioning oils for use as conditioning agents in thecompositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to,hydrocarbon oils having at least about 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclichydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated orunsaturated), and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated orunsaturated), including polymers and mixtures thereof. Straight chainhydrocarbon oils preferably are from about C12 to about C19. Branchedchain hydrocarbon oils, including hydrocarbon polymers, typically willcontain more than 19 carbon atoms.

Specific non-limiting examples of these hydrocarbon oils includeparaffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturatedand unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane,saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturatedhexadecane, polybutene, polydecene, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chainisomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain lengthhydrocarbons, can also be used, examples of which include highlybranched, saturated or unsaturated, alkanes such as thepermethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., the permethyl-substituted isomersof hexadecane and eicosane, such as2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and2,2,4,4,6,6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, available from PermethylCorporation, hydrocarbon polymers such as polybutene and polydecene. Apreferred hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer ofisobutylene and butene. A commercially available material of this typeis L-14 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Corporation.

b. Polyolefins

Organic conditioning oils for use in the compositions of the presentinvention can also include liquid polyolefins, more preferably liquidpoly-α-olefins, more preferably hydrogenated liquid poly-α-olefins.Polyolefins for use herein are prepared by polymerization of C4 to aboutC14 olefenic monomers, preferably from about C6 to about C12.

Preferred non-limiting examples of olefenic monomers for use inpreparing the polyolefin liquids herein include ethylene, propylene,1-butene, 1-pentene, 1-hexene to 1-hexadecenes, 1-octene, 1-decene,1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, branched chain isomers such as4-methyl-1-pentene, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable for preparingthe polyolefin liquids are olefin-containing refinery feedstocks oreffluents.

c. Fatty Esters

Other suitable organic conditioning oils for use as the conditioningagent in the compositions of the present invention include, but are notlimited to, fatty esters having at least 10 carbon atoms. These fattyesters include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acidsor alcohols (e.g. mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- andtri-carboxylic acid esters). The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fattyesters hereof may include or have covalently bonded thereto othercompatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g.,ethoxy or ether linkages, etc.).

Specific examples of preferred fatty esters include, but are not limitedto: isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexylpalmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecylstearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate,lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyloleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyladipate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are mono-carboxylic acid esters of the general formula R′COOR,wherein R′ and R are alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and the sum of carbonatoms in R′ and R is at least 10, preferably at least 22.

Still other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are di- and tri-alkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylicacids, such as esters of C₄ to C₈ dicarboxylic acids (e.g. C₁ to C₂₂esters, preferably C₁ to C₆, of succinic acid, glutaric acid, and adipicacid). Specific non-limiting examples of di- and tri-alkyl and alkenylesters of carboxylic acids include isocetyl stearyol stearate,diisopropyl adipate, and tristearyl citrate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are those known as polyhydric alcohol esters. Such polyhydricalcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, such as ethylene glycolmono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acidesters, polyethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propyleneglycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate,polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycolmonostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerolpoly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butyleneglycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylenepolyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylenesorbitan fatty acid esters.

Still other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are glycerides, including, but not limited to, mono-,di-, and tri-glycerides, preferably di- and tri-glycerides, morepreferably triglycerides. For use in the compositions described herein,the glycerides are preferably the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glyceroland long chain carboxylic acids, such as C₁₀ to C₂₂ carboxylic acids. Avariety of these types of materials can be obtained from vegetable andanimal fats and oils, such as castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil,corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil,sesame oil, lanolin and soybean oil. Synthetic oils include, but are notlimited to, triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are water insoluble synthetic fatty esters.

Specific non-limiting examples of suitable synthetic fatty esters foruse in the compositions of the present invention include: P-43 (C₈-C₁₀triester of trimethylolpropane), MCP-684 (tetraester of 3,3diethanol-1,5 pentadiol), MCP 121 (C₈-C₁₀ diester of adipic acid), allof which are available from Mobil Chemical Company.

39. Anti-Dandruff Actives

The compositions of the present invention may also contain ananti-dandruff agent. Suitable, non-limiting examples of anti-dandruffparticulates include: pyridinethione salts, azoles, selenium sulfide,particulate sulfur, and mixtures thereof. Preferred are pyridinethionesalts, especially 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts. The concentration ofpyridinethione anti-dandruff particulate typically ranges from about0.1% to about 4%, by weight of the composition, preferably from about0.1% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2%. Preferredpyridinethione salts include those formed from heavy metals such aszinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum and zirconium, preferably zinc,more preferably the zinc salt of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as“zinc pyridinethione” or “ZPT”). Pyridinethione anti-dandruff agents aredescribed, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,809,971; 3,236,733;3,753,196; 3,761,418; 4,345,080; 4,323,683; 4,379,753 and 4,470,982.

40. Humectant

The compositions of the present invention may contain a humectant.Humectants can be selected from the group consisting of polyhydricalcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixturesthereof. Humectants, when used herein, are preferably used at levels offrom about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about5%.

Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, sorbitol, propyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose,1,2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose,diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate,sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, andmixtures thereof.

Water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein includepolyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weightof up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400,PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.

41. Suspending Agent

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise asuspending agent, preferably at concentrations effective for suspendingwater-insoluble material in dispersed form in the compositions or formodifying the viscosity of the composition. Such concentrations canpreferably range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably fromabout 0.3% to about 5.0%.

Suspending agents useful herein include anionic polymers and nonionicpolymers. Useful herein are vinyl polymers such as cross linked acrylicacid polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer, cellulose derivatives andmodified cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose,nitro cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose,cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum,hydroxypropyl guar gum, arabia gum, galactan, carob gum, pectin, agar,quince seed (Cyclonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat),algae colloids (algae extract), microbiological polymers such asdextran, succinoglucan, pulleran, starch-based polymers such ascarboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-basedpolymers such as sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol esters,acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate,polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, and inorganic water soluble materialsuch as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, andanhydrous silicic acid. Actives aforementioned as thickening agents canalso be used herein as suspending agents.

Commercially available viscosity modifiers highly useful herein includeCarbomers with tradenames Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950,Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981, all available from B. F. GoodrichCompany, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer with tradenameACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass, nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulosewith tradename AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol,methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose withtradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied byHercules, ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers withtradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied byAmerchol.

Other optional suspending agents include crystalline suspending agentswhich can be categorized as acyl derivatives, long chain amine oxides,long chain acyl derivatives and mixtures thereof. These suspendingagents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,741,855. These preferredsuspending agents include ethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, alkanolamides of fatty acids, long chain esters of long chain fatty acids(e.g., stearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, etc.); long chain esters oflong chain alkanol amides (e.g., stearamide diethanolamide distearate,stearamide monoethanolamide stearate); and glyceryl esters (e.g.,glyceryl distearate, trihydroxystearin, tribehenin) a commercial exampleof which is Thixin® available from Rheox, Inc

Other suitable suspending agents include primary amines having a fattyalkyl moiety having at least about 16 carbon atoms, examples of whichinclude palmitamine or stearamine, and secondary amines having two fattyalkyl moieties each having at least about 12 carbon atoms, examples ofwhich include dipalmitoylamine or di(hydrogenated tallow)amine. Stillother suitable suspending agents include di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalicacid amide, and crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ethercopolymer.

42. Terpene Alcohol

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a terpene alcoholor combinations of terpene alcohols. As used herein, “terpene alcohol”refers to organic compounds composed of two or more 5-carbon isopreneunits [CH2=C(CH3)-CH═CH2] with a terminal hydroxyl group. Preferably,the composition can comprise from about 0.001% to about 50%, preferablyfrom about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about15%, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, and still more preferably fromabout 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the terpenealcohol.

Examples of terpene alcohols that can be useful herein include farnesol,derivatives of farnesol, isomers of farnesol, geraniol, derivatives ofgeraniol, isomers of geraniol, phytantriol, derivatives of phytantriol,isomers of phytantriol, and mixtures thereof. A preferred terpenealcohol for use herein is farnesol.

a. Farnesol and Derivatives Thereof

Farnesol is a naturally occurring substance which is believed to act asa precursor and/or intermediate in the biosynthesis of squalene andsterols, especially cholesterol. Farnesol is also involved in proteinmodification and regulation (e.g., farnesylation of proteins), and thereis a cell nuclear receptor which is responsive to farnesol.

Chemically, farnesol is [2E,6E]-3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-oland as used herein “farnesol” includes isomers and tautomers of such.Farnesol is commercially available, e.g., under the names farnesol (amixture of isomers from Dragoco) and trans-trans-farnesol (SigmaChemical Company). A suitable derivative of farnesol is farnesyl acetatewhich is commercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company.

b. Geraniol and Derivatives Thereof

Geraniol is the common name for the chemical known as3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol. As used herein, “geraniol” includesisomers and tautomers of such. Geraniol is commercially available fromAldrich Chemical Company. Suitable derivatives of geraniol includegeranyl acetate, geranylgeraniol, geranyl pyrophosphate, andgeranylgeranyl pyrophosphate, all of which are commercially availablefrom Sigma Chemical Company. For example, geraniol is useful as a spidervessel/red blotchiness repair agent, a dark circle/puffy eye repairagent, sallowness repair agent, a sagging repair agent, an anti-itchagent, a skin thickening agent, a pore reduction agent, oil/shinereduction agent, a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation repair agent,wound treating agent, an anti-cellulite agent, and regulating skintexture, including wrinkles and fine lines.

c. Phytantriol and Derivatives Thereof

Phytantriol is the common name for the chemical known as 3,7,11,15,tetramethylhexadecane-1,2,3,-triol. Phytantriol is commerciallyavailable from BASF. For example, phytantriol is useful as a spidervessel/red blotchiness repair agent, a dark circle/puffy eye repairagent, sallowness repair agent, a sagging repair agent, an anti-itchagent, a skin thickening agent, a pore reduction agent, oil/shinereduction agent, a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation repair agent,wound treating agent, an anti-cellulite agent, and regulating skintexture, including wrinkles and fine lines.

II Carrier

The compositions of the present invention can comprise an orally or adermatologically acceptable carrier, or injectible liquid, dependingupon the desired product form.

A. Dermatologically Acceptable Carrier

The topical compositions of the present invention can also comprise adermatologically acceptable carrier for the composition. In oneembodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about99.99%, preferably from about 60% to about 99.9%, more preferably fromabout 70% to about 98%, and even more preferably from about 80% to about95%, by weight of the composition. The carrier can be in a wide varietyof forms. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (water or oilbased), emulsions, and solid forms (gels, sticks). For example, emulsioncarriers can include, but are not limited to, oil-in-water,water-in-oil, water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, andoil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions.

Depending upon the desired product form, preferred carriers can comprisean emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions (e.g., silicone in water) andwater-in-oil emulsions, (e.g., water-in-silicone emulsions). As will beunderstood by the skilled artisan, a given component will distributeprimarily into either the water or oil phase, depending on the watersolubility/dispensability of the component in the composition. In oneembodiment, oil-in-water emulsions are especially preferred. Emulsionsaccording to the present invention can contain an aqueous phase and alipid or oil. Lipids and oils may be derived from animals, plants, orpetroleum and may be natural or synthetic (i.e., man-made). Preferredemulsions can also contain a humectant, such as glycerin. Emulsions canfurther comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably fromabout 0.2% to about 5%, of an emulsifier, based on the weight of thecomposition. Emulsifiers may be nonionic, anionic or cationic. Suitableemulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,755,560,4,421,769, and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North AmericanEdition, pages 317-324 (1986). Suitable emulsions may have a wide rangeof viscosities, depending on the desired product form.

The compositions of the present invention can be in the form of pourableliquids (under ambient conditions). The compositions can thereforecomprise an aqueous carrier, which is typically present at a level offrom about 20% to about 95%, preferably from about 60% to about 85%. Theaqueous carrier may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water andorganic solvent, but preferably comprises water with minimal or nosignificant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwiseincidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients ofother essential or optional components.

The emulsion may also contain an anti-foaming agent to minimize foamingupon application to the keratinous tissue. Anti-foaming agents includehigh molecular weight silicones and other materials well known in theart for such use.

Preferred water-in-silicone and oil-in-water emulsions are described ingreater detail below.

1. Water-in-Silicone Emulsion

Water-in-silicone emulsions contain a continuous silicone phase and adispersed aqueous phase.

a. Continuous Silicone Phase

Preferred water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention containfrom about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 5% to about 40%, morepreferably from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of a continuoussilicone phase. The continuous silicone phase exists as an externalphase that contains or surrounds the discontinuous aqueous phasedescribed hereinafter.

The continuous silicone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil. Apreferred water-in-silicone emulsion system is formulated to provide anoxidatively stable vehicle for the active ingredients of the presentinvention. The continuous silicone phase of these preferred emulsionscontain between about 50% and about 99.9% by weight oforganopolysiloxane oil and less than about 50% by weight of anon-silicone oil. In an especially preferred embodiment, the continuoussilicone phase contains at least about 50%, preferably from about 60% toabout 99.9%, more preferably from about 70% to about 99.9%, and evenmore preferably from about 80% to about 99.9%, polyorganosiloxane oil byweight of the continuous silicone phase, and up to about 50%non-silicone oils, preferably less about 40%, more preferably less thanabout 30%, even more preferably less than about 10%, and even morepreferably less than about 2%, by weight of the continuous siliconephase.

The organopolysiloxane oil for use in the composition may be volatile,non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. Theterm “nonvolatile” as used in this context refers to those siliconesthat are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (underone atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100° C. The term“volatile” as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils.Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety ofsilicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities.Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes,cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein includepolyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000centistokes at 25° C. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes includethe polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones,examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by General ElectricCompany and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation.Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning®200 fluid, Dow Corning® 225 fluid, and Dow Corning® 200 fluids Examplesof suitable alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone andlauryl dimethicone.

Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition includecommercially available cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning® 244 fluid,Dow Corning® 344 fluid, Dow Corning® 245 fluid and Dow Corning® 345fluid.

Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate. Acommercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture withdimethicone as Dow Corning® 593 fluid.

Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. Commerciallyavailable dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethiconeor cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition.Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 15 to about 65centistokes at 25° C. are especially useful.

Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected frompolyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones,trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, andmixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanesand cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes aredimethicones.

As stated above, the continuous silicone phase may contain one or morenon-silicone oils. Suitable non-silicone oils have a melting point ofabout 25° C. or less under about one atmosphere of pressure. Examples ofnon-silicone oils suitable for use in the continuous silicone phase arethose well known in the chemical arts in topical personal care productsin the form of water-in-oil emulsions, e.g., mineral oil, vegetableoils, synthetic oils, semisynthetic oils, etc.

b. Dispersed Aqueous Phase

The topical compositions of the present invention contain from about 30%to about 90%, more preferably from about 50% to about 85%, and stillmore preferably from about 70% to about 80% of a dispersed aqueousphase. In emulsion technology, the term “dispersed phase” is a termwell-known to one skilled in the art which means that the phase existsas small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by acontinuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal ordiscontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion ofsmall aqueous particles or droplets suspended in and surrounded by thecontinuous silicone phase described hereinbefore.

The aqueous phase can be water, or a combination of water and one ormore water soluble or dispersible ingredients. Nonlimiting examples ofsuch ingredients include thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelants,gums, water-soluble or dispersible alcohols and polyols, buffers,preservatives, sunscreening agents, colorings, and the like.

The topical compositions of the present invention will typically containfrom about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%,more preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water in the dispersedaqueous phase by weight of the composition.

c. Emulsifier for Dispersing the Aqueous Phase

The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention preferablycontain an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the compositioncontains from about 0.1% to about 10% emulsifier, more preferably fromabout 0.5% to about 7.5%, still more preferably from about 1% to about5%, emulsifier by weight of the composition. The emulsifier helpsdisperse and suspend the aqueous phase within the continuous siliconephase.

A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be employed herein to form thepreferred water-in-silicone emulsion. Known or conventional emulsifyingagents can be used in the composition, provided that the selectedemulsifying agent is chemically and physically compatible withcomponents of the composition of the present invention, and provides thedesired dispersion characteristics. Suitable emulsifiers includesilicone emulsifiers, non-silicon-containing emulsifiers, and mixturesthereof, known by those skilled in the art for use in topical personalcare products. Preferably these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or lessthan about 14, more preferably from about 2 to about 14, and still morepreferably from about 4 to about 14. Emulsifiers having an HLB valueoutside of these ranges can be used in combination with otheremulsifiers to achieve an effective weighted average HLB for thecombination that falls within these ranges.

Silicone emulsifiers are preferred. A wide variety of siliconeemulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typicallyorganically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled inthe art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers includedimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethyl siloxanes whichhave been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethyleneoxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, andpolyether chains containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxideand propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethiconecopolyols, i.e., compounds which contain C2-C30 pendant side chains.Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials havingvarious cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendantmoieties.

Nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other siliconesurfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polydimethylsiloxanepolyether copolymers with pendant polyethylene oxide sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polypropyleneoxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendantmixed polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixedpoly(ethylene)(propylene)oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxanepolyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylatesidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendantquaternary ammonium sidechains; and also further modifications of thepreceding copolymers containing pendant C2-C30 straight, branched, orcyclic alkyl moieties. Examples of commercially available dimethiconecopolyols useful herein sold by Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning®190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 fluid, and 3225C (this latermaterial being sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone). Cetyl dimethiconecopolyol is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the tradename ABIL®WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is alsocommercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and)polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyl dimethicone and is sold under thetradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Othernonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryldimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyoladipate, dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyol behenate,dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxy stearate,dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol laurate,dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, anddimethicone copolyol stearate.

Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, forexample, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,960,764, European Patent No. EP330,369,Among the non-silicone-containing emulsifiers useful herein arevarious non-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar estersand polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fattyacid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 estersof polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylenefatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, andmixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are described, for example,in McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition(1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; and 3,755,560

Nonlimiting examples of these non-silicon-containing emulsifiersinclude: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate,polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methylglucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof

d. Silicone Elastomer

The compositions of the present invention also include from about 0.1%to about 30%, by weight of the composition, of a silicone elastomercomponent. Preferably, the composition includes from about 1% to about30%, more preferably from about 2% to about 20%, by weight of thecomposition, of the silicone elastomer component.

Suitable for use herein are silicone elastomers, which can beemulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers ormixtures thereof. No specific restriction exists as to the type ofcurable organopolysiloxane composition that can serve as startingmaterial for the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Examples inthis respect are addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxanecompositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the additionreaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane andorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups;condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in thepresence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction betweenhydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containingdiorganopolysiloxane and condensation-curing organopolysiloxanecompositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or atitanate ester.

Addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions are preferredfor their rapid curing rates and excellent uniformity of curing. Aparticularly preferred addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxanecomposition is prepared from: a) an organopolysiloxane having at least 2lower alkenyl groups in each molecule; b) an organopolysiloxane havingat least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule; and c) aplatinum-type catalyst.

The compositions of the present invention may include an emulsifyingcrosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer, a non-emulsifying crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomer, or a mixture thereof. The term“non-emulsifying,” as used herein, defines crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomers from which polyoxyalkylene units areabsent. The term “emulsifying,” as used herein, means crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomers having at least one polyoxyalkylene (e.g.,polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) unit. Preferred emulsifyingelastomers herein include polyoxyalkylene modified elastomers formedfrom divinyl compounds, particularly siloxane polymers with at least twofree vinyl groups, reacting with Si—H linkages on a polysiloxanebackbone. Preferably, the elastomers are dimethyl polysiloxanescrosslinked by Si—H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin.Emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers can notably bechosen from the crosslinked polymers described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,412,004, 5,837,793, and 5,811,487. In addition, an emulsifyingelastomer comprised of dimethicone copolyol crosspolymer (and)dimethicone is available from Shin Etsu under the tradename KSG-21.

Advantageously, the non-emulsifying elastomers are dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymers. Such dimethicone/vinyl dimethiconecrosspolymers are supplied by a variety of suppliers including DowCorning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu(KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]),and Grant Industries (GRANSIL™) line of elastomers). Cross-linkedorganopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention andprocesses for making them are further described in U.S. Pat. Nos.4,970,252, 5,760,116 and 5,654,362.

Commercially available elastomers preferred for use herein are DowCorning's 9040 silicone elastomer blend, Shin Etsu's KSG-21, andmixtures thereof

e. Carrier for Silicone Elastomer

The topical compositions of the present invention may include from about1% to about 80%, by weight of the composition, of a suitable carrier forthe for the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer component describedabove. The carrier, when combined with the cross-linkedorganopolysiloxane elastomer particles of the present invention, servesto suspend and swell the elastomer particles to provide an elastic,gel-like network or matrix. The carrier for the cross-linked siloxaneelastomer is liquid under ambient conditions, and preferably has a lowviscosity to provide for improved spreading on the skin.

Concentrations of the carrier in the cosmetic compositions of thepresent invention will vary primarily with the type and amount ofcarrier and the cross-linked siloxane elastomer employed. Preferredconcentrations of the carrier are from about 5% to about 50%, morepreferably from about 5% to about 40%, by weight of the composition.

The carrier for the cross-linked siloxane elastomer includes one or moreliquid carriers suitable for topical application to human skin. Theseliquid carriers may be organic, silicone-containing orfluorine-containing, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar,provided that the liquid carrier forms a solution or other homogenousliquid or liquid dispersion with the selected cross-linked siloxaneelastomer at the selected siloxane elastomer concentration at atemperature of from about 28° C. to about 250° C., preferably from about28° C. to about 100° C., preferably from about 28° C. to about 78° C.The term “volatile” as used herein refers to all materials that are not“non-volatile” as previously defined herein. The phrase “relativelypolar” as used herein means more polar than another material in terms ofsolubility parameter; i.e., the higher the solubility parameter the morepolar the liquid. The term “non-polar” typically means that the materialhas a solubility parameter below about 6.5 (cal/cm³>)05.

f. Non-Polar, Volatile Oils

The composition of the present invention may include non-polar, volatileoils. The non-polar, volatile oil tends to impart highly desirableaesthetic properties to the compositions of the present invention.Consequently, the non-polar, volatile oils are preferably utilized at afairly high level. Non-polar, volatile oils particularly useful in thepresent invention are silicone oils; hydrocarbons; and mixtures thereof.Such non-polar, volatile oils are disclosed, for example, in Cosmetics,Science, and Technology, Vol. 1, 27-104 edited by Balsam and Sagarin,1972. Examples of preferred non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons includepolydecanes such as isododecane and isodecane (e.g., Permethyl-99A whichis available from Presperse Inc.) and the C7-C8 through C12-C15isoparaffins (such as the Isopar Series available from Exxon Chemicals).Linear volatile silicones generally have a viscosity of less than about5 centistokes at 25° C., whereas the cyclic silicones have viscositiesof less than about 10 centistokes at 25° C. Highly preferred examples ofvolatile silicone oils include cyclomethicones of varying viscosities,e.g., Dow Corning 200, Dow Corning 244, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning344, and Dow Corning 345, (commercially available from Dow CorningCorp.); SF-1204 and SF-1202 Silicone Fluids (commercially available fromG.E. Silicones), GE 7207 and 7158 (commercially available from GeneralElectric Co.); and SWS-03314 (commercially available from SWS SiliconesCorp.).

g. Relatively Polar, Non-Volatile Oils

The composition of the present invention may include relatively polar,non-volatile oils. The non-volatile oil is “relatively polar” ascompared to the non-polar, volatile oil discussed above. Therefore, thenon-volatile co-carrier is more polar (i.e., has a higher solubilityparameter) than at least one of the non-polar, volatile oils. Relativelypolar, non-volatile oils potentially useful in the present invention aredisclosed, for example, in Cosmetics, Science, and Technology, Vol. 1,27-104 edited by Balsam and Sagarin, 1972; U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,202,879 and4,816,261. Relatively polar, non-volatile oils useful in the presentinvention are preferably selected from silicone oils; hydrocarbon oils;fatty alcohols; fatty acids; esters of mono and dibasic carboxylic acidswith mono and polyhydric alcohols; polyoxyethylenes; polyoxypropylenes;mixtures of polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene ethers of fattyalcohols; and mixtures thereof.

h. Non-Polar, Non-Volatile Oils

In addition to the liquids discussed above, the carrier for thecross-linked siloxane elastomer may optionally include non-volatile,non-polar oils. Typical non-volatile, non-polar emollients aredisclosed, for example, in Cosmetics, Science, and Technology, Vol. 1,27-104 edited by Balsam and Sagarin, 1972; U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,202,879 and4,816,261. The non-volatile oils useful in the present invention areessentially non-volatile polysiloxanes, paraffinic hydrocarbon oils, andmixtures thereof.

2. Oil-in-Water Emulsions

Other preferred topical carriers include oil-in-water emulsions, havinga continuous aqueous phase and a hydrophobic, water-insoluble phase(“oil phase”) dispersed therein. The “oil phase” can contain oil,silicone or mixtures thereof, and includes but is not limited to theoils and silicones described above in the section on water-in-oilemulsions. The distinction of whether the emulsion is characterized asan oil-in-water or silicone-in-water emulsions is a function of whetherthe oil phase is composed of primarily oil or silicone. The water phaseof these emulsions consists primarily of water, but can also containvarious other ingredients such as those water phase ingredients listedin the above section on water-in-oil emulsion. The preferredoil-in-water emulsions comprises from about 25% to about 98%, preferablyfrom about 65% to about 95%, more preferably from about 70% to about 90%water by weight of the total composition.

In addition to a continuous water phase and dispersed oil or siliconephase, these oil-in-water compositions also comprise an emulsifier tostabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers useful herein are well known in theart, and include nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphotericemulsifiers. Non-limiting examples of emulsifiers useful in theoil-in-water emulsions of this invention are given in McCutcheon's,Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), U.S. Pat.Nos. 5,011,681, 4,421,769 and 3,755,560. Examples of suitableoil-in-water emulsion carriers are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,073,371and 5,073,372. An especially preferred oil-in-water emulsion, containinga structuring agent, hydrophilic surfactant and water, is described indetail hereinafter.

a. Structuring Agent

A preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains a structuring agent to assistin the formation of a liquid crystalline gel network structure. Withoutbeing limited by theory, it is believed that the structuring agentassists in providing rheological characteristics to the compositionwhich contribute to the stability of the composition. The structuringagent may also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Preferredcompositions of this invention contain from about 0.5% to about 20%,more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, even more preferably fromabout 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a structuringagent.

The preferred structuring agents of the present invention includestearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having anaverage of about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethyleneglycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. More preferred structuringagents of the present invention are selected from stearyl alcohol, cetylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearylalcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2),the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average ofabout 21 ethylene oxide units (steareth-21), the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxideunits, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred structuring agents areselected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, steareth-21, and mixtures thereof

b. Hydrophilic Surfactant

The preferred oil-in-water emulsions contain from about 0.05% to about10%, preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably fromabout 1% to about 3% of at least one hydrophilic surfactant which candisperse the hydrophobic materials in the water phase (percentages byweight of the topical carrier). The surfactant, at a minimum, must behydrophilic enough to disperse in water.

Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionicsurfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants that are useful herein arethose that can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chainalcohols, e.g. C8-30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers, i.e.,glycosides. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n-O—Rwherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, andgalactose; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is aC8-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkylgroup can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.Preferred examples of these surfactants include those wherein S is aglucose moiety, R is a C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of fromabout 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactantsinclude decyl polyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS from Henkel) andlauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS from Henkel).

Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products ofalkylene oxides with fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide esters of fattyacids), the condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles offatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids), thecondensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (i.e.alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols), the condensation products ofalkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. whereinthe polyalkylene oxide portion is esterified on one end with a fattyacid and etherified (i.e. connected via an ether linkage) on the otherend with a fatty alcohol]. Nonlimiting examples of these alkylene oxidederived nonionic surfactants include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12,ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10,steareth-12, steareth-21, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryltallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10distearate, and mixtures thereof.

Still other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acidamide surfactants, An especially preferred surfactant corresponding tothe above structure is coconut alkyl N-methyl glucoside amide. Processesfor making compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides aredisclosed, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,965,576; 2,703,798, and1,985,424.

Preferred among the nonionic surfactants are those selected from thegroup consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrosecocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar estersand polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fattyacid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 estersof polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylenefatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixturesthereof. Nonlimiting examples of these emulsifiers include: polyethyleneglycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose etherdistearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetylphosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glycerylstearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85),sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate,polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose etherdistearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Another group of non-ionic surfactants useful herein are fatty acidester blends based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid esterand sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance beingpreferably C8-C24, more preferably C10-C20. The preferred fatty acidester emulsifier is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C16-C20 fatty acidester with sucrose C10-C16 fatty acid ester, especially sorbitanstearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICIunder the trade name Arlatone 2121.

Other suitable surfactants useful herein include a wide variety ofcationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants such as areknown in the art and discussed more fully below. The hydrophilicsurfactants useful herein can contain a single surfactant, or anycombination of suitable surfactants. The exact surfactant (orsurfactants) chosen will depend upon the pH of the composition and theother components present.

Also useful herein are cationic surfactants, especially dialkylquaternary ammonium compounds, examples of which are described in U.S.Pat. Nos. 5,151,209; 5,151,210; 5,120,532; 4,387,090; 3,155,591;3,929,678; 3,959,461; McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers, (NorthAmerican edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co.; and Schwartz, et al.,Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York:Interscience Publishers, 1949.

Nonlimiting examples of these cationic emulsifiers includestearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, behenamidopropyl PGdimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate,stearamidopropyl dimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate,and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is behenamidopropyl PGdimonium chloride.

Nonlimiting examples of quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactantsinclude those selected from cetyl ammonium chloride, cetyl ammoniumbromide, lauryl ammonium chloride, lauryl ammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, stearyl ammonium bromide, cetyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, cetyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, lauryl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl dimethyl cetyl ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride,dicetyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl ammoniumchloride, dilauryl ammonium bromide, distearyl ammonium chloride,distearyl ammonium bromide, dicetyl methyl ammonium chloride, dicetylmethyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl methyl ammonium chloride, dilaurylmethyl ammonium bromide, distearyl methyl ammonium chloride, distearylmethyl ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof. Additional quaternaryammonium salts include those wherein the C12 to C30 alkyl carbon chainis derived from a tallow fatty acid or from a coconut fatty acid. Theterm “tallow” refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids(usually hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which generally have mixturesof alkyl chains in the C16 to C18 range. The term “coconut” refers to analkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which generally havemixtures of alkyl chains in the C12 to C14 range. Examples of quaternaryammonium salts derived from these tallow and coconut sources includeditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow dimethyl ammonium methylsulfate, di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride,di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium acetate, ditallow dipropylammonium phosphate, ditallow dimethyl ammonium nitrate,di(coconutalkyl)dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(coconutalkyl)dimethylammonium bromide, tallow ammonium chloride, coconut ammonium chloride,and mixtures thereof. An example of a quaternary ammonium compoundhaving an alkyl group with an ester linkage is ditallowyl oxyethyldimethyl ammonium chloride.

More preferred cationic surfactants are those selected frombehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimyristyl dimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldiammonium ethosulfate,stearamidopropyl dimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate,and mixtures thereof.

Still more preferred cationic surfactants are those selected frombehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimyristyl dimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixturesthereof.

A preferred combination of cationic surfactant and structuring agent isbehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride and/or behenyl alcohol, whereinthe ratio is preferably optimized to maintained to enhance physical andchemical stability, especially when such a combination contains ionicand/or highly polar solvents.

A wide variety of anionic surfactants can also be useful herein.Nonlimiting examples of anionic surfactants include the alkoylisethionates, and the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The reactionproducts of fatty acids esterified with isethianonic acid andneutralized, i.e. the alkoyl isethionates typically have the formulaRCO—OCH₂CH₂SO₃M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to about30 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium,sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. For example, the fatty acids arederivated from coconut or palm kernel oil. Nonlimiting examples of theseisethionates include those alkoyl isethionates selected from ammoniumcocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroylisethionate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof. Alsosuitable are salts of fatty acids, amides of methyl taurides. Othersimilar anionic surfactants are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,486,921;2,486,922 and 2,396,278.

The alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the respectiveformulae ROSO₃M and RO(C₂H₄O)xSO₃M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl offrom about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from about 1 to about 10,and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, alkanolamines such astriethanolamine, monovalent metals, such as sodium and potassium, andpolyvalent metal cations such as magnesium and calcium. Preferably, Rhas from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 10to about 16 carbon atoms, even more preferably from about 12 to about 14carbon atoms, in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The alkylether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethyleneoxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 8 to about 24 carbonatoms. The alcohols can be synthetic or they can be derived from fats,e.g., coconut oil, palm kernel oil, tallow. Lauryl alcohol and straightchain alcohols derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil arepreferred. Such alcohols are reacted with between about 0 and about 10,preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably about 3, molarproportions of ethylene oxide, and the resulting mixture of molecularspecies having, for example, an average of 3 moles of ethylene oxide permole of alcohol, is sulfated and neutralized

Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water-solublesalts of the organic, sulfuric acid reaction products of the generalformula:R1-SO₃-Mwherein R1 is chosen from the group including a straight or branchedchain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 toabout 24, preferably about 10 to about 16, carbon atoms; and M is acation described hereinbefore. Still other anionic synthetic surfactantsinclude the class designated as succinamates, olefin sulfonates havingabout 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and β-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates.Examples of these materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammoniumlauryl sulfate. Other anionic surfactants suitable for use in thecompositions are the succinnates, examples of which include disodiumN-octadecylsulfosuccinnate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; diammoniumlauryl sulfosuccinate; tetrasodiumN-(1,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinnate; diamyl ester ofsodium sulfosuccinic acid; dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid;and dioctyl esters of sodium sulfosuccinic acid. Other suitable anionicsurfactants include olefin sulfonates having about 10 to about 24 carbonatoms. In addition to the true alkene sulfonates and a proportion ofhydroxy-alkanesulfonates, the olefin sulfonates can contain minoramounts of other materials, such as alkene disulfonates depending uponthe reaction conditions, proportion of reactants, the nature of thestarting olefins and impurities in the olefin stock and side reactionsduring the sulfonation process. A non limiting example of such analpha-olefin sulfonate mixture is described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,332,880.

Another class of anionic surfactants suitable for use in thecompositions is the beta-alkyloxy alkane sulfonate class. Thesesurfactants conform to the formula

where R1 is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20carbon atoms, R2 is a lower alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3carbon atoms, preferably 1 carbon atom, and M is a water-soluble cationas described hereinbefore. Other anionic materials useful herein aresoaps (i.e. alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) offatty acids, typically having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms,preferably from about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids usedin making the soaps can be obtained from natural sources such as, forinstance, plant or animal-derived glycerides (e.g., palm oil, coconutoil, soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, lard, etc.) The fatty acids canalso be synthetically prepared. Soaps are described in more detail inU.S. Pat. No. 4,557,853.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examplesof amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in thecompositions of the present invention are those which are broadlydescribed as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines inwhich the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain andwherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about22 carbon atoms (preferably C8-C18) and one contains an anionic watersolubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, orphosphonate. Examples are alkyl imino acetates, and iminodialkanoatesand aminoalkanoates of the formulas RN[CH₂)mCO₂M]₂ and RNH(CH₂)_(m)CO₂Mwherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M is H,alkali metal, alkaline earth metal ammonium, or alkanolammonium.Preferred amphoteric surfactants for use in the present inventioninclude cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate,lauroamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof. Also included areimidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of suitableamphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecyl-aminopropionate, sodium3-dodecylaminopropane sulfonate, N-alkyltaurines such as the oneprepared by reacting dodecylamine with sodium isethionate according tothe teaching of U.S. Pat. No. 2,658,072; N-higher alkyl aspartic acidssuch as those produced according to the teaching of U.S. Pat. No.2,438,091; and the products sold under the trade name “Miranol” anddescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 2,528,378. Other examples of usefulamphoterics include phosphates, such as coamidopropyl PG-dimoniumchloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC, from MonaCorp.).

Zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use in the composition are wellknown in the art, and include those surfactants broadly described asderivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfoniumcompounds, in which the aliphatic radicals can be straight or branchedchain, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such ascarboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Zwitterionicssuch as betaines are preferred. Examples of betaines include the higheralkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine(available as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp.), laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (wherein theRCONH(CH₂)₃ radical is attached to the nitrogen atom of the betaine),oleyl betaine (available as amphoteric Velvetex OLB-50 from Henkel), andcocamidopropyl betaine (available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 fromHenkel).

Other useful amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include thesultaines and hydroxysultaines such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine(available as Mirataine CBS from Rhone-Poulenc), and the alkanoylsarcosinates corresponding to the formula RCON(CH₃)CH₂CH₂CO₂M wherein Ris alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms, and M is awater-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium andtrialkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine), a preferred example of which issodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

c. Water Emollient

The preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains from about 25% to about98%, preferably from about 65% to about 95%, more preferably from about70% to about 90% water by weight of the topical carrier.

The hydrophobic phase is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase. Thehydrophobic phase may contain water insoluble or partially solublematerials such as are known in the art, including but not limited to thesilicones described herein in reference to silicone-in-water emulsions,and other oils and lipids such as described above in reference toemulsions.

The topical compositions of the subject invention, including but notlimited to lotions and creams, may contain a dermatologically acceptableemollient. Such compositions preferably contain from about 1% to about50% of the emollient. As used herein, “emollient” refers to a materialuseful for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for theprotection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients is knownand may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2ndEdition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples ofmaterials suitable as an emollient. A preferred emollient is glycerin.Glycerin is preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.001 to orabout 30%, more preferably from or about 0.01 to or about 20%, stillmore preferably from or about 0.1 to or about 10%, e.g., 5%.

Lotions and creams according to the present invention generally containa solution carrier system and one or more emollients. Lotions and creamstypically contain from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1%to about 20%, of emollient; from about 50% to about 90%, preferably fromabout 60% to about 80%, water; the actives and the additional skin careactive (or actives) in the above described amounts. Creams are generallythicker than lotions due to higher levels of emollients or higher levelsof thickeners.

Ointments of the present invention may contain a simple carrier base ofanimal or vegetable oils or semi-solid hydrocarbons (oleaginous);absorption ointment bases which absorb water to form emulsions; or watersoluble carriers, e.g., a water soluble solution carrier. Ointments mayfurther contain a thickening agent, such as described in Sagarin,Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73(1972), and/or an emollient. For example, an ointment may contain fromabout 2% to about 10% of an emollient; from about 0.1% to about 2% of athickening agent as well as the active ingredient(s) and the additionalingredient(s) in the above described amounts.

Compositions of this invention useful for cleansing (“cleansers”) can beformulated with a suitable carrier, e.g., as described above, andpreferably comprise from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably fromabout 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. Thesurfactant is suitably selected from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic,amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of thesesurfactants. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in thedetergency art. Nonlimiting examples of possible surfactants includeisoceteth-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyltaurate, and sodium lauryl sulfate. See U.S. Pat. No. 4,800,197, forexemplary surfactants useful herein. Examples of a broad variety ofadditional surfactants useful herein are described in McCutcheon'sDetergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published byAllured Publishing Corporation. The cleansing compositions canoptionally contain, at their art-established levels, other materialswhich are conventionally used in cleansing compositions.

As used herein, the term “foundation” refers to a liquid, semi-liquid,semi-solid, or solid skin cosmetic which includes, but is not limited tolotions, creams, gels, pastes, cakes, and the like. Typically thefoundation is used over a large area of the skin, such as over the face,to provide a particular look. Foundations are typically used to providean adherent base for color cosmetics such as rouge, blusher, powder andthe like, and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth, evenappearance to the skin. Foundations of the present invention include adermatologically acceptable carrier and may include conventionalingredients such as oils, colorants, pigments, emollients, fragrances,waxes, stabilizers, and the like. Exemplary carriers and such otheringredients which are suitable for use herein are described, for examplein PCT Application WO 96/33689, and U.K. Patent GB 2274585.

B. Orally Acceptable Carrier

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise an orallyacceptable carrier if they are to be ingested. Any suitable orallyingestible carrier or carrier form, as known in the art or otherwise,can be used. Non-limiting examples of oral personal care compositionscan include, but are not limited to, tablets, pills, capsules, drinks,beverages, syrups, granules, powders, vitamins, supplements, healthbars, candies, chews, and drops.

C. Injectible Liquid

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise a liquidthat is acceptable for injection in and/or under the skin if thecomposition is to be injected. Any suitable acceptable liquid as knownin the art or otherwise can be used.

III Composition Preparation

The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared byconventional methods such as are known in the art of making topical andoral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods cantypically be conducted in one or more steps, with or without heating,cooling, and the like.

The physical form of the compositions according to the invention is notimportant: they may be in any galenic form such creams, lotions, milk orcream ointments, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions,cleansers, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks, in particularlipbalm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and scalptreatment lotions, cream or lotion for care of skin or hair, make-upremoving lotions or creams, sun-screen lotions, milks or creams,artificial suntan lotions, creams or milks, pre-shave, shave oraftershave creams, foams, gels or lotions, make-up, lipsticks, mascarasor nail varnishes, skin “essences,” serums, adhesive or absorbentmaterials, transdermal patches, or powders, emollient lotion, milk orcream, sprays, oils for the body and the bath, foundation tint bases,pomade, emulsion, colloid, compact or solid suspension, pencil,sprayable or brossable formulation, blush, rouge, eyeliner, lipliner,lip gloss, facial or body powder, mousse or styling gels, nailconditioner, lip balms, skin conditioners, moisturizers, hair sprays,soaps, body exfoliants, astringents, depilatories and permanent wavingsolutions, antidandruff formulations, anti-sweat and antiperspirantcompositions, nose sprays and so on. These compositions can also bepresented in the form of lipsticks intended to apply colour or toprotect the lips from cracking, or of make-up products for the eyes ortints and tint bases for the face. Compositions in accordance with theinvention include cosmetics, personal care products and pharmaceuticalpreparations. The present invention may also be applied on animal skin.One can also consider a composition in the shape of foam or in the formof compositions for aerosol also including a propellant agent underpressure.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also be fororodental use, for example, toothpaste. In that case, the compositionsmay contain the usual adjuvants and additives for compositions for oraluse and, in particular, surfactants, thickening agents, moisturizingagents, polishing agents such as silica, various active substances suchas fluorides, particularly sodium fluoride, and, possibly, sweeteningagents such as saccharin sodium.

Homarine and erythritol may be in the form of solution, dispersion,emulsion, paste, or powder, individually or as a premix or in vehiclesindividually or as a premix in vectors such as macro-, micro-, ornanocapsules, macro-, micro- or, nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes orchylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro ornanosponges, micro or nano emulsions or adsorbed on organic polymerpowders, talcs, bentonites, or other inorganic or organic supports.Homarine and erythritol and the cosmetic compositions of the presentinvention may be used in any form whatsoever, in a form bound to orincorporated in or absorbed in or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, andnanoparticles, or macro-, micro-, and nanocapsules, for the treatment oftextiles, natural or synthetic fibres, wools, and any materials that maybe used for clothing or underwear for day or night intended to come intocontact with the skin, handkerchiefs or cloths, to exert their cosmeticeffect via this skin/textile contact and to permit continuous topicaldelivery.

IV Method for Cosmetic Treatment

Without being bound to any theory, the applicant considers that deliveryof homarine and erythritol can counterbalance the ion imbalance andincrease cutaneous water holding capacity. In addition, the applicantconsiders that the association homarine/erythritol creates anosmo-balancing entity which strongly reinforces a hydration effect.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention is directed toa cosmetic care method to improve the general state of the skin and/orof the scalp, and more particularly to prevent and/or to treat cutaneousdehydration, to improve cutaneous hydration, to reinforce the cutaneousbarrier function, comprising the topical applying to skin of a effectiveamount of a composition as defined above. According to a moreparticularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic care method isdirected to improve tonicity and/or firmness and/or elasticity and/orsoftness of the skin and comprises applying to the skin an effectiveamount of a composition as defined before.

The present invention is also providing a cosmetic method to restoreand/or promote osmotic balance in skin or scalp cells, to protect skinor scalp cells from osmotic UV induced shocks, comprising the topicalapplying to skin and/or scalp of an effective amount of a composition asdefined above.

The present invention is also providing a cosmetic method for thetreatment of sensitive skins, for preventing or resorbing cutaneousdrying signs, for preventing or treating cutaneous dehydratation inconnection with ageing, comprising the topical applying to skin and/orscalp of an effective amount of a composition as recited above.

The present invention is also providing a cosmetic method to restorenormal hydration of the skin and or of the scalp, to offer an immediateand long lasting hydration, to regulate the water efflux and/or to exerta calming action, comprising the topical applying to skin and/or scalpof an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

The composition of the invention can be locally applied to the face, theneck, the neckline, the hands or the body's area. One of the bigadvantages of the present invention is the possibility to proceedwhenever necessary or desirable, to very localize and selective “soft”treatments thanks to the topical application method.

According to another aspect of the invention, it is also possible topropose devices with several compartments or kits for implementing theabove described method, and which comprise in a first compartmenthomarine and in a second compartment erythritol, the compositionscomprised in said first and second compartments being here considered ascombination for a simultaneous, separate or staggerate use, in atreatment for improving the general state of the skin and/or of thescalp, and more particularly for preventing and/or treating cutaneousdehydration.

The present invention also provides the use of homarine in combinationwith erythritol for the preparation of a medication for treating thecutaneous dehydration signs.

The present invention is directed to chemical, medical, cosmetic, skincare industries.

Several formulations will be cited to illustrate the invention; they arerepresentatives of the invention but do not restrict the invention.

V EXAMPLES

A. In Vitro Tests

1—Demonstration of the Osmo-Protective Effect of the Combination(Homarine+Erythritol) after a Hyper-Osmotic Shock

In the event of hyper-osmotic shock, water efflux results in a change involume and shape of the cell, which shrink and if stress is lasting,apoptosis is initiated.

Human keratinocytes cultured in a normo-osmolar medium (without FCS butcontaining BSA) were incubated in the presence of rising concentrationsof erythritol (0.06% and 1%) and of homarine (0.006% and 0.06%). After24 hours, the cells were exposed to a hyper-saline osmotic shock of +300mosmol with NaCl for 5 hours. After the stress, the cells were returnedto the normal normo-osmolar medium (with BSA). The morphology of thecells was monitored by video-microscopy; cytoplasmic and nuclearstaining enable a count of the number of cells and quantification ofcell area.

TABLE 1 Evolution of the number and area of human keratinocytes 48 hafter hyper-osmotic stress (n = 3 tests). Control Combination ofCombination of (non Erythritol (0.6%) + Erythritol (1%) + treatedHomarine Homarine Homarine Homarine cells) (0.006%) (0.06%) (0.01%)(0.1%) Cell count 114 155 171 206 176 % change — +36% +50% +91% +62%Total cell area 49539 67931 77929 94853 80458 μm² Significance — P <0.01 P < 0.01 P < 0.01 P < 0.01 Mean area per 421 440 458 461 461 cell %change —  +5%  +9% +10% +10% Significance — NS Significant SignificantSignificant

The cells treated by the association (homarine+erythritol) showed agreater post-shock recovery and greater viability with respect to nontreated cells for which the hypersalin shock results in apoptosis.

These results demonstrated a dose-dependent protective effect of thecombination (homarine+ertythritol) with respect to hyper-osmotic shock.

With the combination (homarine 0.006%+erythritol 0.6%), the protectionwas clear with a greater number of cells: +36% and a total cell areaincreased of 5%; the protected cells showed smaller “shrinkage”, thisbeing more pronounced with the combination (homarine 0.01%+erythritol1%) which increased the cell count by 91% and a average cell surfaceincreased of +10%. The role played by homarine within the combinationwas thus demonstrated with the results of the combination(homarine+erythritol) enriched in homarine which gives a significantmean area increase of +9% for a significantly more important number ofcells.

2—Comparison of the Osmo-Protective Effects

The aim of this test is to compare, at equivalent dosage, theosmo-protective effects of a combination of homarine+erythritol and of acombination of betaine+erythritol. The osmo-protective activity of thecompounds was evaluated after a hyper-osmotic shock induced by NaCl. Theosmo-protective effect of the compounds was evaluated by quantifyingcell survival using the UPTIBLUE method whose reactant (Resazurine) actsas a growing indicator based on cell metabolic activity (cellbreathing).

Human keratinocytes were cultured 24 h in a culture medium (DMEMc+FCS)then incubated until confluence was reached. At this stage, the cellswere put in pre-contact with the compounds for 24 h. The day after, a 5h NaCl stress in the presence of the compounds was applied to the cellsin the DMEMc medium (without FCS, with BSA) containing 150 mM of NaCl.After this stress, cells were rinsed and were recovered with or withoutthe compounds to be tested in the same medium as before (T0). Recoverywas estimated at long term by measuring the survival at T5 days afterthe beginning of the stress (T0). A variance analysis was realized onthe data obtained. In the case of variance identity, a student test tfor matched series was further realized on the means.

The tests were realized at 49 mM of erythritol and at two equalmolarities between betaine and homarine: 346 μM corresponding to 1×; and3460 μM corresponding to 10×.

Comparison of the osmo-protective effects are given in table 2 between acombination homarine+erythritol and a combination betaine+erythritol 5days after a hyper-osmotic shock.

TABLE 2 Change in the cell count versus control after a hyper-osmoticshock. % of change of the cell Test products count versus control.Control Ref. Erythritol + Homarine 1x +86% p<0.01 p<0.01 Erythritol +Betaine 1x +31% p<0.05 Erythritol + Homarine 10x +186%  p<0.01 p<0.01Erythritol + Betaine 10x +66% p<0.01

A greater osmo-protective effect after a hyper-osmotic shock is observedwith the combination (homarine+erythritol) than the osmo-protectiveeffect observed with the combination (betaine+erythritol) at the twotested concentrations (1× and 10×).

3—Demonstration of a Synergistic Effect of the Homarine and Erythritolin an Osmo-Protective Activity on Human Keratinocytes.

Human kerotinocytes were cultured for 24 h in a culture medium(DMEMc+FCS) than incubated until confluence was obtained. At this stage,the cells were putted in pre-contact with the compounds for 24 h. Theday after, a 5h NaCl stress in the presence of the compounds was appliedto the cells in the DMEMc medium (without FCS, with BSA) containing 150mM of NaCl. After this stress, cells were rinced and were recovered withor without the compounds to be tested in the same medium as before (T0).Recovery was estimated at long term by measuring the survival at T5 daysand at T7 days after the beginning of the stress (T0). The compoundswere tested at the following concentrations: erythritol 0.6%, homarine0.006% (corresponding to 1×) and homarine 0.06% (corresponding to 10×).

The UPTIBLUE technic was used to visualize and quantify the cell numberafter the hyper-osmotic shock and the osmo-protective effect of thecompound was thus evaluated.

TABLE 3 Change with respect to the control of the cell count as afunction of time after a hyper-osmotic stress % of change in cell countversus control (post-stress). Test product T0 T5 days T7 days Control(medium alone) Ref. Ref. Ref. Erythritol  −8%  +39%  +62% (dns) (p<0.01)(p<0.01) Homarine 1x +10%  +33%  +26% (dns) (p<0.05) (p<0.05))Erythritol + Homarine 1x +28%  +86% +151% (dns) (p<0.01) (p<0.01)Homarine 10x +14%  +93% +130% (dns) (p<0.01) (p<0.01) Erythritol +Homarine 10x +19% +186% +570% (dns) (p<0.01) (p<0.01)

An osmo-protector effect on human keratinocytes is observed both witherythritol and homarine 5 and 7 days after a hyper-osmotic shock. Theosmo-protective effect of homarine is dose dependant. The combination oferythritol and homarine has not only a dose dependant osmo-protectiveeffect but has also a synergistic effect with regards a hyper-osmoticstress.

4—Demonstration of an Osmo-Protective Effect of the Combination(Homarine+Erythritol) after a Hypo-Osmotic Shock.

In the event of a hypo-osmotic shock, an incoming water influx inducesswelling of the cell volume, then to the apoptosis if the stress isprolonged.

Human keratinocytes were cultured in a normo-osmolar medium for 24 hoursin a culture medium (without FCS but with BSA) in the presence of risingconcentrations of erythritol (0.06% and 1%) and of homarine (0.006% and0.06%). After 24 hours, cells were exposed to a hypo-osmotic shock byreplacing the culture medium with medium diluted 2-fold with distilledwater. Cells were then cultured in this new medium for 6 days in thepresence or not of the combination (homarine+erythritol).

TABLE 4 Change of the number and area of the human keratinocytes 6 daysafter a hyp-osmotic shock in the presence or absence of the combination(homarine + erythritol) Combination of Erythritol (0.6%) + Combinationof Control (non Homarine Homarine Erythritol (1%) + treated cells)(0.006%) (0.06%) Homarine (0.1%) Cell count   126    371    460    420 %change — +195% +265% +233% Total cell area 45305 119095 128203 122520(μm²) Significance — P<0,01 P<0,01 P<0,01 Mean area per   378    324   281    295 cell % change —  −14%  −26%  −22% Significance —Significant Significant Significant

A clear protection of the cells was observed with the combination(homarine 0.006%+erythritol 0.6%) with a greater number of cells and adecrease of average cell volume of −14% with respect to stressed cells.The protected cells were less “swelled”, this being even more markedwith the combination (homarine 0.06%+erythritol 0.6%), with a decreaseof −26% of the average cell area. Microscopic observations haveconfirmed that after 24h under hypo-osmolarity, the number of cells inthe presence of the combination (homarine 0.06%+erythritol 0.6%) isgreater and their morphology is normal with respect to stressed cellswithout the combination (homomarine+erythritol).

These results demonstrate a protective effect of the combination(homomarine+erythritol) with regards to an hypo-osmotic shock.

5—Demonstration of a Protective Effect of the Combination(Homarine+Erythritol) with Regards to Drying

The study model was based on a drastic method: pre-confluent monolayerhuman keratinocytes were cultured in the presence or the absence of thecombination (homarine+erythritol) at different concentrations. Then thecells were subjected to desiccation by aspiration of all the culturemedium. The cells were immediately placed under a microscope andobserved over the next few minutes.

Desication occurred very rapidly, the follow-up criterion was cellretraction associated with accentuated refringens of the externalmembrane. The duration for drying out of 75% of the cells was measured;it is a semi-quantitative measure.

TABLE 5 Resistance to desiccation of keratinocytes pre-incubated in thepresence or the absence of the combination (homarine + erythritol). Theresults are expressed in minutes and hundredths of minutes. Non treatedErythritol (0.6%) + Erythritol (1%) + cells Homarine (0.006%) Homarine(0.01%) Dessication Culture 1 5.08 6.08 6.41 resistance Culture 2 4.665.16 7.08 (min) Culture 3 4.0  4.74 6.16 Δ Mean — +0.75 +1.23 value(min)

The pretreatment with the combination of (homarine+erythritol) conferredenhanced dessication resistance on the cells markely visible for theassociation erythritol (1%)+homarine (0.01%). This resistance seems toderive from the greater capacity of the cell to hold intra-cellularwater (or “water holding capacity”).

6—Demonstration of a UV Protective Effect of the Combination(Homarine+Erythritol)

Kerotinocytes were cultured at sub-confluence in a normo-osmolarcomplete medium, than were transferred and incubated for 24 hours in aculture medium (without FCS, with BSA) in the presence of increasingconcentrations of erythritol (0.06% and 1%) and of homarine (0.006% and0.06%). After 24 hours, the cells were subjected to 30 mJ of UVB. Afterradiation, the cells were again transferred in a normo-osmolar medium inthe presence or in the absence of the combination (homarine+erythritol).After 48 hours, the status of the cell layers was observed and thenumber of cells by the Hoescht reactant is completed.

TABLE 6 Visual morphological aspect and evolution of the number of humankeratinocytes subjected to UV stress in the presence of the combination(homarine + erythritol) with respect to the stressed control cellsnon-treated with the combination (homarine + erythritol). Combination ofCombination of Erythritol (0.6%) + Erythritol (1%) + Homarine HomarineHomarine Homarine (0.006%) (0.06%) (0.01%) (0.1%) Number of cells (%change) +1% +13% +17% +38% Visual protection Weak + + + + + +

These results clearly show un protective effect with respect to UVB withvery marked protection for the association (homarine 0.01%+erythritol1%) showing the decisive role of homarine in this efficiency.

UVB radiation stimulated the uptake of the osmolytes of the combination(homarine+erythritol) enabling the keratinocytes to protect themselvesagainst the UV-radiation-induced oxidative stress and against apoptosis.

B. Formulation Examples

P1*: is a solution comprising between 2000 ppm and 20000 ppm of homarineand 20% of erythritol. P1 preparation is a preferred embodiment of theinvention. The amount of such preparation in a cosmetic composition mayvary in a large extend and is preferably within the range of 0.1% and50% by weight with regards to the total weight of the cosmeticcomposition.

Ingredients % by wt Deionised water qsp 100 % Homarine 0.20 − 2.00Erythritol 20

Method: Water is heated at 40° C. Erythritol is added and the mixture isstirred until total solubilization. The mixture is cooled and homarineis added. The mixture is stirred. pH is adjusted and filtration iscarried out.

1—Moisturizing Gel

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Dionised water qsp 100% Ultrez 10Carbomer 0.40 Part B NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxide 0.40 Deionised water 4.00Part C Potassium sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part D P1* 3.00

Method: Allow Ultrez 10 to swell in water without stirring. Mix Part Band add it to Part A. Homogenize. Pour Part C in Part A+B. Homogenizethen leave under stirring during 30 minutes. Disperse Part A underimpeller stirring. Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in the water and allow to swellfor 15 minutes. Add Part D and homogenize. Leave under stirring during30 minutes.

2—Moisturizing Day Cream

Ingredients INCI % by wt Part A H2O qsp100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.20 PartB Potassium sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part C Butylene glycol 2.00Phenova Phenoxyethanol (and) Mixed Parabens 0.80 Part D Crill 3 SorbitanStearate 1.00 Crillet 3 Polysorbate 60 2.50 DC 200 Dimethicone 2.50Crodamol TN Isotridecyl Isononanoate 5.00 Crodamol GTCC Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride 5.00 Crodamol SS Cetyl Ester 1.00 Super Hartolan LanolinAlcohol 0.50 Super Sterol Ester C10-C30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol ester0.30 Crodacol CS90 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 Part E NaOH 30% SodiumHydroxide 0.25 Deionised water Water (Aqua) 2.50 Part F P1* 4.00 PHASE GDermosome ™ glycerin (and) water (and) propylene 3.00 glycol (and)lecithin Part H Fragrance Fragrance 0.10

Method: Part A: Disperse Ultrez 10 in water for swelling during 20minutes; then add Part B and Part C; heat until 75° C. Heat Part Dseparately at 75° C., mix well. Pour Part D in Part (A+B+C) whilestirring. Homogenize then neutralize with Part E; cool until 35° C. isreached; then add Part F, Part G, and Part H.

Dermosome™ is an aqueous suspension of liposomes from SEDERMA.

3—Moisturizing Foundation

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Deionised water Water (Aqua) qsp 100% KOH10% Potassium hydroxide 1.30 Crillet 4 NF Polysorbate 80 0.10 Part BTitanium dioxide 6.00 Talc 3.05 Yellow iron oxide 1.80 Red iron oxide1.00 Black iron oxide 0.15 Part C Propylene glycol 4.00 Veegum RegularMagnesium Aluminum Silicate 1.00 Part D Propylene glycol 2.00 Cellulosegum Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose 0.12 Part E Cromollient DP3-A Di-PPG-3Myristyl Ether Adipate 12.00 Crodamol ISNP Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.00Crodafos CS 20 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth- 3.00 20 Phosphate (and)Dicetyl Phosphate Volpo S-10 Steareth-10 2.00 Crodacol C-70 Cetylalcohol 0.62 Volpo S-2 Steareth-2 0.50 Part F Moist24 ™ ImperataCylindrica extract 3.00 (and) water (and) glycerine (and) PEG8 (and)carbomer Part G P1* 5.00 Part H Germaben II Propylene glycol (and)Diazolidinyl 1.00 Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

Method: Part A: disperse Ultrez 10 in water for swelling during 20minutes. Premix the pigments; then add Part B to Part A until dispersionof the pigments; begin to heat. Heat Part C separately, mix well. PourPart C in Part (A+B) under stirring. Prepare Phase D separately, mixwell. Pour Part C in Phase (A+B) while stirring. Prepare Part Dseparately, mix well. Pour Part D in Part (A+B+C) under stirring;homogenize. Prepare Part E separately, mix well. Pour Part E in Part(A+B+C+D) under stirring; around 45° C. add Part F, then G and H. Adjustthe pH at 7.5, homogenize.

Moist24® is a Cylindrica imperata roots extract from SEDERMA (WO01/62218).

4—Repair Night Cream

% by Ingredient INCI wt Part A H2O qsp 100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.20 PartB Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 Part C Volpo S 2 Steareth 2 0.60 Crodafos CESCetearyl Alcohol Dicetyl Phosphate & 4.00 Ceteth 10 Phosphate SuperSterol Ester C10 C30 Cholesterol Ester 0.30 Crodamol OSU DioctylSuccinate 7.00 Crodamol CAP Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 3.00 Methyl ParabenMethyl Paraben 0.30 Crill 3 Sorbitan Stearate 1.60 Crodamol STS PPG 3Benzyl Ether Myristate 2.00 Part D Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part ENaOH 30% Sodium Hydroxyde 0.35 H2O 3.50 Part F Matrixyl ® 3000 Glycerin(and) Aqua (and) Butylene 3.00 Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) - Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Part GP1* 2.00 Part H Fragrance Fragrance 0.10

Method: Sprinkel Ultrez 10 in water. Leave for swelling 30 minutes; addPart B; heat the first part and Part C at 75° C. in water bath. Mixwell; under stirring, add part C in Part A+B, homogenize well.Extemporaneously, add Part D; add Part E around 50° C. then Part F.around 35° C. add Part G, then Part H; mix well. pH=5.80.

Matrixyl® 3000 is a combination of 2 matrikines proposed by SEDERMA(WO05/048968).

5—Lip Balm

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Deionised water qsp 100% SorbatePotassium Sorbate 0.10 Magnesium Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Sulfate Part BAbil EM 90 Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3.00 Methyl Paraben Methyl Paraben1.00 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin 0.30 Crodamol STS PPG-3 Benzyl EtherMyristate 2.00 Mineral Oil Mineral Oil 19.00 Part C P1* 1.00 Part DFragrance Fragrance 0.10

Method: Heat Part A at 85° C. Mix Part B and heat it at 85° C. Mix. Pourslowly Part A in Part B while stirring (Staro s=3000, then s=1200). AddPart C previously heated at 80° C., mix. Add Part D around 35° C. Flow.

6—Moisturizing Body Milk

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A H₂O Qsp 100 Potassium Sorbate PotassiumSorbate 0.10 NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxyde 0.15 Glycerin glycerin 10.00 PartB Mixed parabens Mixed parabens 0.20 Crodacol CS90 Ceyearyl Alcohol 0.20Cithrol GMS AS Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG 100 stearate 1.60 Mineral oilMineral oil 15.00 Steraric acid Stearic acid 2.40 Part C P1* 10.00 PartD Fragrance fragrance 0.10

Method: Part A: weigh and heat at 75° C. Mix Part B and heat it at 75°C. Add Part B to Part A while stirring. Homogenize. Add Part C around35° C., then Part D.

7—Hand Cream

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A H₂O Qsp 100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.15 PartB Conservatives 0.80 Glycerin glycerin 10.00 Part C Crodacol C90 CetylAlcohol 3.00 Crill 3 3.00 Crillet 3 2.50 DC200 dimethicone 2.00 Sheabutter butyrospermum Parkii 6.00 Crodamol GTCC Part D Potassium SorbatePotassium Sorbate 0.10 Part E H₂O 2.00 NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxyde 0.15Part E P1* 15.00 Part F Hydraprotectol SM ^(TM) Water (and) Glyceryl3.00 polymethacrylate (and) glycerin (and) aleuretic acid (and) yeastextract (and) glycoprotein Part G Fragrance fragrance 0.10

Method: Mix Part A and leave it for swelling during 20 nm. HomogenizePart B and poor it in Part A. Heat Part (A+B) at 75° C. in a water bath.Heat Part C at 75° C. and poor it in Part (A+B). Poor Part Dextemporaneously. Homogenize. At 50° C., poor Part E. Then add Part F,then Part G and Part H. Homogenize.

Hydraprotectol SM™ in a cutaneous barrier moisturizing andreconstituting ingredient proposed by SEDERMA (FR 2678830).

8—Anti-Age Gel

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Dermaxyl ^(TM) (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate andTribehenin & 2.00 Ceramide 2 & PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol & PalmitoylOligopeptide) Crodamol STS PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 8.00 Pripure3759 Vegetal Squalane 6.00 Volpo N3 Oleth-3 6.20 Crodafos N-3 neutralOleth-3 Phosphate 5.80 Volpo N5 Oleth-5 3.80 Part B Deionised waterWater deionised Qsp 100 Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 10.00 ProcetylAWS Procetyl AWS 2.00 Glycerin Glycerin 1.00 Part C PhenoxyethanolPhenoxyethanol 1.00 Part D P1* 6.00

Method: Part A: weigh and heat at 95° C. in a water bath. Homogenize.Heat Part B at 95° C. in a water bath. Homogenize. Slowly incorpore PartB to part A under stirring (s=30%) at hot temperature. Mix whileincreasing the stirring speed when viscosity increases. Add Part C to(A+B) around 70° C. Add Part D and homogenize.

9—Protective Hair Spray

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Deionised water Water (Aqua) qsp 100%Ethanol 10.00 Crillet 1 Polysorbate 20 0.40 Incroquat CTC 30 CetrimoniumChloride 1.00 Part B HELIOGENOL ™ Butylene Glycol (and) Helianthus 5.00Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract Preservatives qs Part C P1* 0.10 Part DDeionised water Water (Aqua) 0.50 NaOH Sodium Hydroxide 0.05

Method: Weigh and mix Part A under stirring propeller 300rd/min; AddPart B, homogenize, then Part C. Adjust pH at ˜5-5,5 with Part D.HELIOGENOL™ is an extract of sunflower seeds proposed by SEDERMA(EP0512040).

10—Serum

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A H₂O qsp 100 Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum 0.25Part B Butylene Glycol Butylene Glycol 5.00 Methyl Paraben MethylParaben 0.20 Crodamol AB C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.50 Cromollient DP3APP3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 0.50 Crillet 1 Polysorbate 20 1.00 CrodamolML Myristyl Lactate 2.00 Part C DC 345 Cyclohexasiloxane 2.00 PemulenTR2 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.25 Crosspolymer Part D PotassiumSorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part E NaOH 30% Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.22H2O Water deionised 2.00 Part F P1* 12.00 Part G OLIGOCEANE ™ Water(and) Propylene Glycol (and) 3.00 Sea Silt Extract (and) Oyster ShellExtract Part H Fragrance Fragrance 0.10

Method: Part A: disperse the xanthan gum 10 in water and leave it forswelling 1 hour under stirring. Heat Part A at 65° C. in water bath.Heat Part B at 65° C. in water bath then add Part A under stirring.Extemporaneously, add Part C and Part D. Homogenize. Around 45° C. addPart E. Around 35° C. add Part F, then Part G and then Part H.

OLIGOCEANE™ is a trace element extract of marine origin proposed bySEDERMA.

11—Calming After-Shave Gel

Ingredient % in wt Part A Deionised water qsp 100 Carbomer 0.20 Part BGlycerine 5.00 Methyl parabens 0.20 Part C Crodamol IPP 2.00 CromollientDP3A 2.00 Tocopherol Acetate 0.20 Cithrol GMS A/S 1.00 Part D PemulenTR2 0.20 DC 200 (Dimethicone) 2.00 Part E Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part FDepiline ® 2.00 Part G Deionised water 4.00 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40Part H Calmosensine ™ 2.00 Part I Birch Sap ™ 2.00 Part J P1* 3.00 PartK Fragrance 0.10

Chronodyn™ (Euglena Gracilis Extract (and) Glycerin) is a productmarketed by SEDERMA (FR0500431) particularly used for its cellstimulating properties.

Calmosensine™ (Butylene Glycol (and) Aqua (Water) (and) Laureth-3 (and)Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester) is a productmarketed by SEDERMA (WO98/07744) for decreasing the sensation ofdiscomfort, tingling and warmth.

Birch Sap™ or

Sève de Bouleau™

(Betula Alba Sap (and) Glycerin)) is a product marketed by SEDERMA(WO03/024418) having curating, toning and moisturizing properties.

Depiline® (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Tribehenin (and) SorbitanLaurate (and) Nylon-12 (and) Palmatine) is a growth moderator for hairsproposed by SEDERMA (WO07/029,187).

Method: mix Part A and leave it for swelling for 20 nm. Mix Part B andheat at 60° C. until dissolution. Add Part B to Part A under stirring.Heat Part A+Part B until 75° C. Heat Part C at 75° C. in water bath thenunder stirring staro v=300 t/min, add it to Part A+B. Homogenize.Extemporaneously, add Part D under good stirring and add Part E. Part F,heated at 65° C., is then added to Part A+B+C+D+E. Homogenize well.Around 50° C., neutralize with Part G. Homogenize. Add Part H around 45°C., homogenize. Add Part I. Finally add Part J, then Part K around 35°C.

12—Moisturizing Mask

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A H₂O 10.00 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.40 Part BH2O qsp 100 Kelcogel AFT Gomme gellane 0.40 Part C Glycerine Glycerin10.00 Lutrol E 6000 PEG 150 12.00 Nipagine Methyl paraben 0.20 Part DSorbate Potassium sorbate 0.10 Part E Crodasol AC PEG 6 Caprylic/CapricGlycerides & 5.00 PEG 60 Almond Glycerides Fragrance Fragrance 0.30 PartF NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxyde 0.40 H2O 3.00 Part G KOMBUCHKA ™Saccharomyces/Xylinum 3.00 (and) Black Tea Ferment (and) Glycerin (and)Hydroxyethylcellulose Part H P1* 3.50

Method: Weigh Part A, leave it for swelling 20 minutes. Disperse theKelcogel AFT in water under stirring V=300 Tr/min. Then add Part C inPart A+B. Then add Part D in Part A+B+C, stirring for 2 hours. Add PartE under stirring. At least, add Part F, then G under stirring. Add PartH. Mix well.

KOMBUCHKA™ is a product marketed by SEDERMA (FR 2843023) which smoothesand refreshes the skin.

13—Moisturizing Sun Cream

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Nipagine Methyl paraben 0.20 Butyleneglycol Butylene glycol 6.00 Part B Jaguar HP 105 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.40H2O Qsp 100 Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Part C Parsol MCX Ethyl hexylMethoxicinnamate 3.50 (Escalol 2292) Titane dioxyde Titanium dioxyde0.50 DC 345 cyclohexasiloxane 3.00 Part D Crodafos MCA Cetyl phosphate2.00 Volpo S2 Ceteareth 2 1.00 Cithrol GMS AS Glyceryl stearate & PEG100 stearate 3.00 DP3A PPG 3 Myristyl Ether Adipate 2.00 Stearic acidStearic acid 2.50 Part E LUMISKIN ™ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)Diacetyl 4.00 Boldine Part F H₂O 4.00 NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxyde 0.70Part G P1* 4.50 Part H Fragrance Fragrance 0.10

Method: Heat Part A at 70° C. until dissolution of the conservatives.Part B: sprinkle the Jaguar HP 105 under propeller and leave it understirring for 60 minutes. Poor Part A in Part B then heat at 75° C. inwater bath. Mix Part C, homogenize well. Weigh Part D. Poor Part C inPart D. Heat Part C+D at 75° C. in water bath until dissolution, mixwell. Poor Part C+D in Part A+B under propeller. Weigh Part E and heatit at 60° C. Extemporaneously add Part E in the emulsion. Add Part Faround 55° C., then G and H around 35° C.

LUMISKIN™ is a product marketed by SEDERMA (FR0210810) for complexionclarifying.

14—After-Sun Gel

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A H₂O qsp 100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.20 PartB PEG 400 PEG 8 5.00 Nipastat Methyl parabens 0.20 Part C DC 200Dimethicone 4.00 Pemulen TR2 Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate cross 0.20polymer Part D Crillet 1 Polysorbate 20 1.00 TYR-EXCEL ™ Oleoyl Tyrosine(and) Luffa 2.00 Cylindrica (and) (Seed) Oil (and) Oleic Acid Part ESorbate Potassium sorbate 0.10 Part F OSMOCIDE 2 ™ Glycerin (and)caprylyl glycol (and) 4.00 Sodium Polyacrylate (and) PEG 8 Part G H2O5.00 NaOH 10 N Sodium hydroxyde 0.60 Part H P1* 5.00 Part I FragrangeFragrance

Method: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in water, leave it for swellling for 30minutes. Heat Part B until dissolution, add in Part A. Weigh and mixPart C. Mix Part D, homogenize well. Add Part C+D in Part A+B. Then putPart E and F. Leave for swelling for 1 hour. Homogenize well. Neutralizewith Part G, then Part H, then Part I. Adjust the pH around 6.00 withPart G if necessary.

TYR-EXCEL™ is a product proposed by SEDERMA (FR2702766) that promotestanning appearance and restores skin barrier.

OSMOCIDE 2™ is a product proposed by SEDERMA (WO9705856) that hasanti-microbial and moisturizing properties.

15—Shower Gel

Ingredient INCI % by wt Part A Sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.10 Kathon CGMethylchloroisothiazolinone & 0.20 methylisothiazolinone H₂O qsp 100Part B Natrosol 250 hydroxyEthyl cellulose 0.40 Keltrol BT Xanthan gum1.00 Part C Empicol ESB3/M Sodium laureth Sulfate 20.00 Crodasinic LS 30Sodium lauryl sarcosinate 5.00 NaCL Sodium Chlorid 3.00 Crothix liquidPEG 150 Pentaerytrityl tetrastearate PEG 3.50 6 caprylic Capricglycerides & H2O Incronam 30 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.00 Part DSarcolactic acid Sarcolactic acid 0.10 Part E P1* 7.00 Part F BirchSap ™ Betula Alba sap (and) Glycerin 3.00 Part G Fragrance Fragrance

Method: Weigh and mix Part A. Weigh Part B and disperse it in Part Awith a propeller V=500 rd/min. Leave it for swelling under stirring for1 hour. Weigh and mix Part C. Add under stirring Part C in Part A+B. AddPart D, then E to the mixture, homogenize well. Add Part F, then G tothe mixture, homogenize well.

Birch Sap™ or

Sève de Bouleau™

(Betula Alba Sap (and) Glycerin)) is a product marketed by SEDERMA(WO03/024418) having curating, toning and moisturizing properties.

C. In Vivo Studies

These clinical studies were realized with the moisturizing gel formulaof example No 1 and with the corresponding placebo formula (excipients)applied bi-daily for 8 days.

Inclusion criteria: Adult women, of different ages, without specificcriteria except a “dry to very dry” skin, with, during the visualexamination, white flakes presence on legs (conventional site formoisturizing agent measures). Usual conditions for a clinical trial wererespected: washout of use with respect to cosmetic or dermopharmaceuticproducts 5 days before study. No use of moisturizing shower gel on the1s^(t) measurement day. Shaving (2 days) or depilation (3 days) beforeTO, to enable evaluable macro-photographs. Exclusive use of the cosmeticproduct supplied during the study.

Study specific exclusion criteria: Esthetic care, spa, massage,hydrotherapy, swimming pool for the 3 days before and during the study,UV sessions or sun exposure.

Study type and duration: Single-blind placebo-controlled clinical trialconducted on 20 female volunteers of mean age 52 years (23-67 years).This study has a randomized half-body design therefore with each subjectacting as her own control.

The hydration determinations were conducted using three systems yieldinginformation at different depths in the skin (the maximum distanceachieved by the signal under optimum conditions yielding an idea of thepower of penetration).

-   -   a corneometer CM 825 (COURAGE and KHAZAKA) mainly to explore the        stratum corneum and superficial epidermis,    -   a MOISTERMETER transducer XS5 (DELPHIN) to explore superficial        epidermis epidermis+deep epidermis, and    -   with near infrared spectroscopy or “NIR” with NIR system 6500        (FOSS NIR Systems Inc.) mainly to explore dermis.        1) In Vivo Study: Hydration Study of the Stratum Corneum by        Quantitative Image Analysis

Macrophotographs were taken on legs, and the black and whitedigitization of these macrophotographs taken on the sites pre- andpost-product application enabled white fracture lines evidenced on ablack background that show the detached margins of the scales visible onthe surface of the skin. The density of the white network reflects thedensity of the scales. A “percentage dry areas” were thus determinedcompared at t0 and t6 hours for the treated zones with the gel ofexample No 1 and with the placebo.

TABLE 7 Percentage dry areas 6 and 24 hours after topical application ofthe gel of example N°1 or its placebo, mean values for n = 3 tests.Placebo Gel N°1 T0 T 6 h T 24 h T0 T6 h T 24 h % dry skin 12.4 8.3 13.113.1 7.3 11.5 +/− 3.4 +/− 3.0 +/− 3.6 +/− 3.3 +/− 2.9 +/− 3.8 % changevs T0 — −33% −6% — −44% −12% Significance — P < 0.01 NS — P < 0.01 P <0.01

The superficial dryness of the stratum corneum was very markedlydecreased by application of the 2 gels; however at time point 6 hours,the gel of example N^(o)1 was significantly more effective than theplacebo by a factor of 1.4.

2) In Vivo Study: Hydration Study of the Stratum Corneum and ofEpidermis by Corneometry

The capitance measurement is directly related to the water present inthe epidermis.

The corneometry transducer (corneometer CM 825) of 1 Mhz is reported todetermine the water content over an analysis range up to a depth of 100μm, the signal being mainly acquired from the stratum and from supercialepidermis.

TABLE 8 Hydration variation evolution after topical application at T0 orits placebo of gel N°1 (n = 20) (% of hydration with regards to initialvalue) Hydration % Observation time (hours) 0 1 2 4 5 6 7 Applied gelsGel N°1 0 28.5 27 31.8 29.1 30.5 35.5 Placebo 0 2.6 2.6 4.5 9 7.3 6.9

Regarding Gel N^(o)1, the hydration kinetic showed an immediatelyimportant hydration, about 30% and that remains constant over theduration of the study. Hydratation obtained after the placeboapplication remained small and negligible over the duration of thestudy.

Difference between gel N^(o)1 and the placebo was very significant atall time points. The kinetics were monitored over 24 hours and 8 days todetermine the hydration potency on a longer term. The results arepresented in table 9.

TABLE 9 Mean hydration (n = 20) obtained for Gel N°1 and for its placeboat 24 h and 8 days, with comparison to immediate hydration and tohydration at the end of the day (Hydration % with respect to initialvalue). Analysed zone stratum corneum + superifical epidermis. Hydration% Observation time 1 h 7 h 24 h 8 days Applied gels Gel N°1 28.5 35.533.7 37.8 Placebo 2.6 6.9 −1.4 −2.4

It is noteworthy that the hydration at time point 24 hours (with noapplication on the measurement morning) was very similar to that at theend of the previous day. Long-duration hydration is therefore present.After 7 days of application, the determination on day 8 in the morningeven showed a slight increase (≈38%) versus day 1 (≈34%), rendering thedifferential with the placebo even more significant: effective long-termhydration of +38% was obtained.

3) In Vivo Study: Deep and Superficial Epidermis Hydration Study Usingthe Moistermeter

Measurement are based on impedancemetry, directly related to the watercontent of the analyzed tissue.

The measurement transducer (300 MHz electromagnetic wave) is reported toanalyse a depth up to 500 μm with a signal mainly acquired between thesuperficial and basal epidermis.

TABLE 10 Hydration variation evolution of the epidermis after topicalapplication of gel N°1 or of its placebo (n = 20) (hydration % withrespect to initial value). Hydration % Observation time (hours) 0 1 2 45 6 Applied gels Gel N°1 0 30.8 42.7 36.9 39.8 40.2 Placebo 0 16.7 22.217.7 21.1 28.4

Regarding Gel N^(o)1, the hydration kinetic showed a gradual hydration,peaking after 2 hours, then remaining stable at about 40%. Regarding theplacebo, hydration was weaker with about +20% over the interval 1-5hours. Difference between gel N^(o)1 and the placebo was significant atall time points.

The kinetics were monitored over 24 hours and 8 days to determine thehydration potency over a longer term. The results are shown in table 11.

TABLE 11 Mean hydration for all of the epidermis (n = 20) obtained withthe gel N°1 and placebo at 24 h and 8 days, in comparison with immediatehydration and hydration at the end of the day (hydration % with respectto initial value). Analyzed zone: total epidermis. Hydration %Observation time 1 h 6 h 24 h 8 days Applied gels Gel N°1 30.8 40.2 36.231.8 Placebo 16.7 28.4 4.3 2.9

All difference between the Gel N^(o)1 and placebo were significant.

At time point 24 hours, the hydration was 36% (with no application onthe measurement morning) slightly less than at the end of the precedingday. For this long-duration in-depth hydration, the difference versusplacebo was always very significant; the difference increased over thelong term between the gel N^(o)1 and the placebo.

4) In Vivo Study: Study of Hydration Toward Dermis by NIR Method

The absorbance spectra made by NIR method showed 2 characteristicabsorbance peaks for H2O at 1450 and 1940 nm. The first absorbance peakwas taken as the peak of interest since the apex would be more readilylocated. The values obtained before time point 24 h were not significantsince water modulation in-depth has a slow onset.

TABLE 12 mean values (n = 20) of hydration percentage in dermis versusT0, by measure of 1450 nm peak in NIR. Hydration % Observation time 24 h8 days Applied Gel N^(o)1 13.4 11.5 gels Placebo 4.7 −0.1

A significant difference versus the placebo already exists at 10%threshold at 24 h. At 8 days, a percentage in water increased by 11.5%was measured, which was very significantly different from the placebo(p<0.01). This may be due to the in-depth moisturizing effect of the GelN^(o)1.

From the set of determinations at various depths using the differenttechniques, the following may be drawn: hydration rapidly achieved andstable at +30% (after just 1 hour) in the upper epidermis; thesuperficial appearance of the stratum corneum was markedly improved andscales were much less visible (−44%). Little by little, thismoisturization reached depth toward the basal epidermis peaking at +42%at time point 2 hours and remaining stable thereafter. After 24 hours,hydration was generalized and had stabilized throughout the epidermis(+33% in the upper layers (Corneometer) and +36% in the lower layers(moistermeter)). This situation already stabilized superficially, thenenabled water readjustment of the dermis whose water content graduallyincreased to reach a steady state at +11% after 8 days.

1. A composition, comprising active ingredients: i) 0.001 wt. % to 10wt. % of homarine; and ii) 0.01 wt. % to 30 wt. % of erythritol;wherein: a) the homarine and the erythritol are present in a ponderalratio from 1:1000 to 10:1; and b) the active ingredients are in aphysiologically acceptable medium.
 2. The composition of claim 1,wherein the ponderal ratio of the homarine and the erythritol is from1:100 to 10:1.
 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises a cosmetic or a dermopharmaceutic composition.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the composition is a topical, an oral,or an injectible composition.
 5. A method of cosmetic treatment,comprising applying a composition to skin and/or scalp, said compositioncomprising active ingredients: i) 0.001 wt. % to 10 wt. % of homarine;and ii) 0.01 wt. % to 30 wt. % of erythritol; wherein: a) the homarineand the erythritol are present in a ponderal ratio from 1:1000 to 10:1;and b) the active ingredients are in a physiologically acceptablemedium.
 6. The method of claim 5, wherein the cosmetic treatment: a)protects, restores, and/or enhances osmotic equilibrium of scalp and/orskin cells; b) counterbalances an ion-imbalance; c) reinforces thecutaneous barrier function; d) provides skin moisturizing; e) preventsand/or treats cutaneous dehydration; f) prevents and/or treats skindryness signs; and/or g) improves tonicity, firmness, elasticity, and/orsoftness of the skin.
 7. A method of preparing a cosmetic ordermopharmaceutic composition, comprising combining active ingredients,comprising: i) 0.001 wt. % to 10 wt. % of homarine; and ii) 0.01 wt. %to 30 wt. % of erythritol; wherein: a) the homarine and the erythritolare present in a ponderal ratio from 1:1000 to 10:1; and b) the activeingredients are in a physiologically acceptable medium.
 8. The method ofclaim 7, wherein the method further comprises employing a devicecomprising compartments or kits for implementing the method.
 9. Themethod of claim 8, wherein the compartments or kits comprise: i) a firstcompartment, comprising the homarine; and ii) a second compartment,comprising the erythritol; wherein the composition is combinedsimultaneously, separately, or in a staggered fashion.
 10. A method ofproviding a synergistic osmoprotector effect, comprising applying acomposition comprising a combination of at least the following activeingredients: i) 0.001 wt. % to 10 wt. % of homarine; and ii) 0.01 wt. %to 30 wt. % of erythritol; wherein: a) the homarine and the erythritolare present in a ponderal ratio from 1:1000 to 10:1; and b) the activeingredients are in a physiologically acceptable medium.
 11. The methodof claim 10, wherein the composition is for topical, oral, or injectibleuse.
 12. The method of claim 10, wherein the application of thecomposition contacts keratinous tissue.
 13. The method of claim 12,wherein the application comprises an effective amount of thecomposition.
 14. The method of claim 10, wherein the method furtherprovides a hydration activity.
 15. The method of claim 10, wherein themethod further provides one or more of the following: i) improvement inthe regulation of ion efflux in skin cells; ii) protection for the cellstowards osmotic shocks or environmental stress; iii) increased cutaneouswater holding capacity; iv) improvement in the general state of skinand/or scalp; or v) prevention or treatment for cutaneous dehydration.